The magic of Brandy Pot Island

Version française

Imagine sleeping in a lighthouse on a tiny island where you feel like you are just a dot in the vast world. Imagine your ears being filled all day long with birdsong, wind and the sound of water spilling over mossy rocks. Imagine a day where your conception of time shifts to depend only on the sun and the tide, where the night sky is brighter and where your breaths are deeper than they have been in a long while.

On this little island in the middle of the St-Lawrence river in the Canadian province of Quebec, you'll be charmed by marine life and get a glimpse of what it was like to be a lighthouse keeper in the 19th century.

Across from Rivière-du-Loup, this enchanting archipelago is made up of three small islands: Le Gros Pot, Le Petit Pot and le Pot du Phare. Several other islands can be found nearby, like Hare Island (Ile aux Lièvres). The name for Brandy Pot island comes from sailors who thought the puddles of water pooled in pockets on the island's rocky shores looked like brandy.

Historically, the sailing conditions were challenging in this area of the St-Lawrence river; the currents were strong and the many small islands were difficult to see in the night and thick fog. Shipwrecks were far too common, so the construction of several lighthouses was commissioned. The Brandy Pot lighthouse was built in 1862 on the same rocky promontory where it proudly stands today. For 102 years, six keepers took turns enduring the harsh winters, strong winds and unpredictable weather. They committed their lives to the daily upkeep of the lighthouse, to shining its light through each long night, and guiding ships to safety. What an honor it must have been to be a lighthouse keeper, and what a privilege to have this grandiose view to call home. 

The lighthouse fell into disrepair after it was abandoned in 1964, when its light was automated and later rendered obsolete by a modern steel lighthouse tower built a few meters away. But the island was still rich with marine birds and vegetation, which led a group of biologists to join efforts in its preservation. Together, these biologists founded the non-profit organization Société Duvetnor, which gradually acquired several islands in the lower St-Lawrence and invested in the conservation of these bird sanctuaries.  

The aged Brandy Pot Lighthouse was renovated in 1989 according to its original architectural plans and fitted with a new lantern. What helped raise funds for its restoration was the Duvetnor organization's collection of down from the nests of the island's eider ducks each spring. The coveted down from these nests was exported to Europe where its value soared. To ensure the sustainability of these conservation efforts, the Government of Canada recently acquired the island from Duvetnor, though the non-profit organization continues to receive visitors in the three rooms of the historical lighthouse, as well as on the neighboring Hare Island (Ile aux Lièvres). Duvetnor's excursions and lodging serves their primary goal of wildlife conservation. 

Aboard the small ferry crossing over to the archipelago from Rivière-du-Loup, both the height of the waves and my childish excitement had butterflies fluttering wildly in my stomach. Smiling widely, I gripped the metal bar in front of my seat and watched through the soaked windows as a red and white structure slowly grew into view. I have loved lighthouses for as long as I could remember, and here was my chance to stay in one overnight. Two other couples were aboard the boat - hiking shoes, cameras and wine in tow. 

Before disembarking at the lighthouse, our guide Quentin gave us a tour of the archipelago, recounting historical facts to six faces who listened intently, punctuating some of his sentences with a shutter press to record these unique landscapes we felt so privileged to witness. 

When we docked at the lighthouse island and climbed up the long, steep ramp towards solid ground, my mind did all the photographing. The sun was low in the sky and the lighthouse was towering over us, greeting us as it had greeted countless unknown sailors in the past. To our backs, the river, the coastline far beyond our view. Around us, layers of rocks and trees and purple wildflowers, swaying in the fierce wind as though waving us on. Above us, seagulls making their presence known, taking an opportunity to remind us that they are in command here. 

Our gracious Duvetnor hosts welcomed us warmly and showed us to our cozy rooms, thoughtfully decorated in a way that grounded us in the history of the place. We were given a few minutes to get settled and then taken on a walking tour of the island's trails, which are accessible only after the nesting season ends in July. 

The light was magical and we felt blessed to have a perfect view of the horizon, as it had been extremely foggy the day before. Our guide took us along the paths to different lookouts, pointing out the different vegetation and various mysteries of the island, like a cross planted in the middle of the forest. 

My favorite lookout point was "La Chaloupe", which won my heart in that light and won it over again the next morning shortly after sunrise. 

After our walk, we had free time to walk around, sit on the terrace or climb to the top of the lighthouse tower.

Soon, it came time for dinner to be served. We were spoiled with a four-course meal, each dish prepared with local ingredients and fresh garden herbs (in this case, their "garden" being a whole island!). Warm bread, a charcuterie & cheese board, ginger carrot soup, salmon on a bed of wild rice, and a homemade chocolate cake for dessert. 

As we sat in the dining room, the sky put on a symphony of colors to remind us of how blessed we were, in case we had forgotten. We dined for hours, our cheeks cool from the fresh air, the spice of the meal lingering on our lips, our elbows propped on a table we shared with visitors from across the globe who were strangers just hours ago but now were topping up our glasses of wine as though we were old friends. 

We bundled up in all our layers to brave the wind and stepped onto the terrace. Somewhere between the coffee and the last glass of wine, the island had become draped with the perfect night sky - a speckled dome that made us forget Instagram and work and all the pressures of past and future. 

We fell asleep early, suddenly wiped by the excitement and all that our senses had experienced. I woke up in the middle of the night and smiled when I discovered that the electricity had been turned off (as it is solar-powered). I felt refreshed by the stillness of the night and of my mind.

I woke up to join the seagulls at 5am to welcome the sun. I have only caught a handful of sunrises in my life so far. As I'm not a morning person, witnessing sunsets is a much more realistic goal! But what a treat, a feast for the eyes and ears, as I stood there feeling totally undeserving of that miraculous view, watching as the seagulls loudly celebrated the promise of a brand new day. 

Duvetnor must know that fresh air and early sunrises make you hungry! To remedy this, they serve not one but two breakfasts! A light breakfast of fruits and fresh croissants is served at 6am, followed by a more substantial breakfast with eggs and meats at 8am. In between, and afterwards, you're free to enjoy the paths or laze around the lighthouse. I took the opportunity to return to "La Chaloupe" again, where I sat on the rocks for a while and watched the birds go about their morning. I always love to return to the spots that inspire me to see how they change with the changing light and changing tides, and this little gem of a place was no exception.  

When it came time to leave, to walk down that same ramp and say farewell to those views, I felt a pinch in my heart. I watched as the new set of six visitors disembarked, their faces looking around in awe as we had done. It was like coming out of a movie at the theater, wanting to exclaim, "It was so good!" but refraining so as not to spoil anything for them.

In fact, it may seem like I've shared a lot with you here, but I have been conscious not to spoil anything for you. The truth of the matter is, you must go and see - no, feel - this for yourself. Visit the Duvetnor website for all the information you need on Iles du Pot and Ile aux Lièvres. You can also follow them on Facebook or Instagram for updates.

If you do book a stay on these islands, here are 7 things you may want to pack:
- Your camera
- Your childish enthusiasm
- A battery pack (to charge your phone at night without electricity)
- Something to read 
- Hiking shoes 
- A windbreaker and/or hoodie
- Wine

I hope you enjoyed this virtual tour of a place that truly won my heart!

Have you been here or somewhere similar? Leave a comment! I would love to hear from you. 

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