Yearning for a trip to Italy soon?
You may be looking at awe-inspiring destinations like the Italian Riviera, the Amalfi coast or Tuscany, but have you considered a trip to Italy's idyllic heel instead?
In the southern region of Puglia and its Salento peninsula, your senses will be overwhelmed and delighted with sweeping coastlines, stunning beaches, labyrinthian old towns, savory local delicacies and memorable wines. You'll ease into a whole other rhythm of Italian life (forget the bustle of Milano and Rome!) and, if you do it right, you'll discover gems that many Italians have yet to explore.
Italy's heel has a longer coastline than other regions of Italy's mainland, and is bordered by both the Adriatic Sea and the Ionian Sea. Sure, Puglia is home to well-known destinations like its capital Bari, the baroque city of Lecce nicknamed 'Florence of the South' and to the iconic town of Alberobello known for its conical trulli houses. But what makes the region unforgettable is all the places, treasures and feelings in between... and I am here to tell you about them!
In its whitewashed towns and enchanting countryside dotted with millions of olive trees, I promise you will be tempted to stay... or, at the very least, to make plans (almost immediately) to return.
You may be looking at awe-inspiring destinations like the Italian Riviera, the Amalfi coast or Tuscany, but have you considered a trip to Italy's idyllic heel instead?
In the southern region of Puglia and its Salento peninsula, your senses will be overwhelmed and delighted with sweeping coastlines, stunning beaches, labyrinthian old towns, savory local delicacies and memorable wines. You'll ease into a whole other rhythm of Italian life (forget the bustle of Milano and Rome!) and, if you do it right, you'll discover gems that many Italians have yet to explore.
Italy's heel has a longer coastline than other regions of Italy's mainland, and is bordered by both the Adriatic Sea and the Ionian Sea. Sure, Puglia is home to well-known destinations like its capital Bari, the baroque city of Lecce nicknamed 'Florence of the South' and to the iconic town of Alberobello known for its conical trulli houses. But what makes the region unforgettable is all the places, treasures and feelings in between... and I am here to tell you about them!
In its whitewashed towns and enchanting countryside dotted with millions of olive trees, I promise you will be tempted to stay... or, at the very least, to make plans (almost immediately) to return.
Here are 14 spots that should be on your itinerary if visiting Puglia, Italy.
1. Bari
Bari is the capital of the southern region of Puglia and is served by one of two international airports in the region (the other being Brindisi). The Gargano promontory (the "spur" of the boot), its rocky coastline and sprawling national park lies to the north of Bari, as does the picturesque town of Trani.
Bari itself is captivating and quite underrated compared to other Italian cities.
A port city with two harbors, it is a hub for many passenger ferries to Croatia, Greece, Albania or Montenegro. It is also a vibrant university town with a modern center boasting elegant shopping streets and museums. But what is most evocative about Bari is surely its authentic old town and this stark contrast between old and new. Strolling the maze of narrow cobbled lanes, you'll stumble upon one picturesque piazza after another and architectural marvels like the Basilica of S. Nicola, the Cattedrale di S. Sabino and its imposing steeple, the Teatro Petruzzelli and the impossible-to-miss Castello. But you'll also stumble upon several generations of locals making orecchiette pasta by hand in the street in front of their homes, their front door wide open and their children playing nearby. You'll find yourself inadvertently interrupting soccer games in the streets and squares, or conversations between neighbors shouting across balconies overhead. You'll order an espresso and find yourself watching the card game at the neighboring table, wondering whether your grandfather would be friends with these gentlemen if he lived here.
If you travel to Bari, please enjoy my 3 highlights for me: (1) Take a sunset walk and have a drink on the city's medieval ramparts, (2) spend some time in Piazza Mercantile (look up to take it all in), and (3) watch the fishermen at work at Porto Vecchio and along the Lungomare waterfront promenade.
Bari itself is captivating and quite underrated compared to other Italian cities.
A port city with two harbors, it is a hub for many passenger ferries to Croatia, Greece, Albania or Montenegro. It is also a vibrant university town with a modern center boasting elegant shopping streets and museums. But what is most evocative about Bari is surely its authentic old town and this stark contrast between old and new. Strolling the maze of narrow cobbled lanes, you'll stumble upon one picturesque piazza after another and architectural marvels like the Basilica of S. Nicola, the Cattedrale di S. Sabino and its imposing steeple, the Teatro Petruzzelli and the impossible-to-miss Castello. But you'll also stumble upon several generations of locals making orecchiette pasta by hand in the street in front of their homes, their front door wide open and their children playing nearby. You'll find yourself inadvertently interrupting soccer games in the streets and squares, or conversations between neighbors shouting across balconies overhead. You'll order an espresso and find yourself watching the card game at the neighboring table, wondering whether your grandfather would be friends with these gentlemen if he lived here.
If you travel to Bari, please enjoy my 3 highlights for me: (1) Take a sunset walk and have a drink on the city's medieval ramparts, (2) spend some time in Piazza Mercantile (look up to take it all in), and (3) watch the fishermen at work at Porto Vecchio and along the Lungomare waterfront promenade.
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2. Polignano a Mare
I dare you to go to Polignano and tell me upon your return that this place did not tug on your heart. (Challenge accepted?)
Polignano is only about 30 minutes from Bari and easily reachable by train.
Polignano is the perfect setting for slow wandering and sea-gazing. Perched atop limestone cliffs overlooking deep blue waters, Polignano has several beautiful lookout points that will make your heart pound. Certainly don't miss the Balconata sul Mare. The town has a Greek feeling to its architecture and color palette. Take time to find the charming Vicolo della Poesia with a staircase featuring poetry by Bari writer "Guido Il Flâneur". In fact, if you are attentive to your surroundings, you'll find bits of his poetry on doors and walls throughout the old town.
The beach itself (Cala Porto) is small and pebbly, but picturesque. Float on your back and watch the light change on the stone cliffs and its stacked houses. You can rent a bike from Polignano Made in Love and cycle to other nearby beaches and cute towns like San Vito.
And, if you really want to make a memory, go for lunch (or a more formal supper) at the Grotta Palazzese - a restaurant tucked in a cave where you have water spilling in on both sides of its terrace. Quick tip: Be sure to dress adequately (no swimsuits) and warmly, as it can be cool and clammy in the cave, especially after you've been in the hot sun. Also be prepared to spend a LOT for the same "simple" (though extremely fresh) food and wine you've been inexpensively savoring all over Puglia.
Polignano is the perfect setting for slow wandering and sea-gazing. Perched atop limestone cliffs overlooking deep blue waters, Polignano has several beautiful lookout points that will make your heart pound. Certainly don't miss the Balconata sul Mare. The town has a Greek feeling to its architecture and color palette. Take time to find the charming Vicolo della Poesia with a staircase featuring poetry by Bari writer "Guido Il Flâneur". In fact, if you are attentive to your surroundings, you'll find bits of his poetry on doors and walls throughout the old town.
The beach itself (Cala Porto) is small and pebbly, but picturesque. Float on your back and watch the light change on the stone cliffs and its stacked houses. You can rent a bike from Polignano Made in Love and cycle to other nearby beaches and cute towns like San Vito.
And, if you really want to make a memory, go for lunch (or a more formal supper) at the Grotta Palazzese - a restaurant tucked in a cave where you have water spilling in on both sides of its terrace. Quick tip: Be sure to dress adequately (no swimsuits) and warmly, as it can be cool and clammy in the cave, especially after you've been in the hot sun. Also be prepared to spend a LOT for the same "simple" (though extremely fresh) food and wine you've been inexpensively savoring all over Puglia.
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3. Monopoli
Continuing further down the Adriatic coast, Monopoli is basically teleport distance from Polignano, not even 15 minutes away by train!
If you love charming fishing towns and rugged beaches, spending time in Monopoli will do you good! In the morning and evening, enjoy the harbor, the small red lighthouse, the winding streets and the medieval walls surrounding the city. In the afternoon, grab your car or bike to explore nearby beaches, some of them more rugged than others: Cala Porta Vecchia, Cala Cozze, Porto Verde, Cala Paradiso, La Scaletta, Tre Buchi or Porto Marzano.
Remember that public beaches allow you to plop down your towel and umbrella freely on the sand or cliffs, whereas private beaches ("lido") will ask you to rent a spot for the day.
If you love charming fishing towns and rugged beaches, spending time in Monopoli will do you good! In the morning and evening, enjoy the harbor, the small red lighthouse, the winding streets and the medieval walls surrounding the city. In the afternoon, grab your car or bike to explore nearby beaches, some of them more rugged than others: Cala Porta Vecchia, Cala Cozze, Porto Verde, Cala Paradiso, La Scaletta, Tre Buchi or Porto Marzano.
Remember that public beaches allow you to plop down your towel and umbrella freely on the sand or cliffs, whereas private beaches ("lido") will ask you to rent a spot for the day.
4. Ostuni
Ostuni is nicknamed "The White City" and is incredibly gorgeous both from afar and within its winding, inclined streets. Stacked upon a hilltop, Ostuni keeps a watchful eye over the Adriatic and the vast olive groves below. If you love narrow alleyways, dead-ends that open up onto secret courtyards and secret gardens, pretty doors and windows, and whitewashed houses that look even paler against the blue of the Sun and Sea, then Ostuni will undoubtedly enchant you. Climb to the top to see the Duomo or head to the lookout on Corso Vittorio Emanuele II for panoramic views of the city.
Ostuni would be a great choice as a base for a few days so that you can explore the surrounding towns, the masserie farms and the stunning beaches closeby.
Staying the night in a masseria and booking a supper there will allow you to connect more deeply with the land, the traditions and the passionate people who are so beautifully committed to preserving and promoting nature and this culture.
Staying the night in a masseria and booking a supper there will allow you to connect more deeply with the land, the traditions and the passionate people who are so beautifully committed to preserving and promoting nature and this culture.
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5. Alberobello
A UNESCO world heritage site, it would be difficult to complete a Puglia itinerary without a stop in Alberobello. While these cone-shaped limestone "trulli" buildings are scattered throughout the region, the dense cluster of them in Alberobello is what brings visitors to this town. Today, the trulli have been converted into restaurants, souvenir shops and even accommodations. That's right - you can stay in a trullo overnight if that's something on your bucket list!
Alberobello can feel overwhelmingly touristy, but it is worth seeing as it is quite unique. If you want to step away from the touristic center, explore the Rione Aia Piccola area. From there, you could also enjoy views over Alberobello.
Alberobello can feel overwhelmingly touristy, but it is worth seeing as it is quite unique. If you want to step away from the touristic center, explore the Rione Aia Piccola area. From there, you could also enjoy views over Alberobello.
6. Locorotondo
If you visited Polignano and Ostuni first, you may have given either of them the title of "prettiest town in Puglia". And then you come to Locorotondo, and suddenly you're tempted to reassign the title!
Quiet and slow, Locorotondo is the perfect place to spend a few hours taking a mindful stroll, taking in the vista of the surrounding countryside, and savoring an outdoor lunch with a glass of their renowned sparking white wine at one of the welcoming trattorie in the old town.
Quiet and slow, Locorotondo is the perfect place to spend a few hours taking a mindful stroll, taking in the vista of the surrounding countryside, and savoring an outdoor lunch with a glass of their renowned sparking white wine at one of the welcoming trattorie in the old town.
7. Martina Franca
Larger and busier than its neighboring villages, Martina Franca is another town in the Valle d'Itria that is definitely worth your time. Surrounded by fortifications and several preserved Renaissance and Baroque gates, Martina Franca's elegant architecture, pretty streets and wide squares will inspire you.
Look up, look around and look back to take in all the beautiful balconies, archways and shutters. Watch and listen to locals as they go about their day. Let your eyes flit over the symphony of Baroque details of the Basilica di S. Martino and the Chiesa di San Domenico.
Every summer, Martina Franca hosts the Festival della Valle d'Itria opera festival.
Look up, look around and look back to take in all the beautiful balconies, archways and shutters. Watch and listen to locals as they go about their day. Let your eyes flit over the symphony of Baroque details of the Basilica di S. Martino and the Chiesa di San Domenico.
Every summer, Martina Franca hosts the Festival della Valle d'Itria opera festival.
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8. Lecce
No trip to Puglia is complete without visiting its "big city". Despite its size and elegance, Lecce is laid-back and low-key, perfect for exploring and experiencing at a relaxed pace. Strolling its golden streets, you'll notice that they are plenty of sights to take in, plenty of ornate baroque details to swoon over. You'll encounter several blasts from the past with roman ruins, columns, noteworthy museums and gorgeous city gates around Lecce's old town. Outside the old town's cobblestone lanes, you can unwind in one of the city's spacious parks. There is no shortage of interesting places to eat and drink in Lecce - stay tuned on the blog for a local's recommendations!
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If you have time to spare and love authentic experiences, book a day course at The Awaiting Table culinary school. You'll learn hands on how to make orecchiette and several traditional dishes. While you cook and eat, you'll taste regional wine and learn about their intricate personalities. Your senses will thank you!
If you're worried that Lecce is too far inland, do not fret, as the beautiful beaches of San Foca, Torre dell'Orso (with its "due sorelle") and Torre Sant'Andrea are just over a half hour away. At peak season, be prepared for crowds (especially at Torre dell'Orso) and for a sea of "lido" properties offering umbrella and chair rentals, leaving only small patches of "free beach". Still, the rocky scenery and turquoise waters are worth the visit!
9. Otranto
It is easy to fall in love with Otranto and want to extend your stay. The large waterfront piazza is a beautiful place to start and end your day. The main city beach is not far to the left of it, but there is also a wonderful place to swim and sunbathe (if you don't mind putting your towel down on rocks or concrete instead of sand) closer to the port. The irregular-shaped Castello and its moat are worth visiting, and provide stunning views over old seafront town. The Cathedral (Santa Maria Annunziata) is famous for its "Tree of Life" mosaic floor, and the Chiesa di San Pietro is a gorgeous little church with Byzantine frescoes. Climb up for breathtaking views of the sunset before you head for supper. After dark, Otranto comes alive with families strolling the promenade until late.
A highlight of my Salento trip was the nearby beach "Baia dei Turchi", which I still dream of on long winter days.
A highlight of my Salento trip was the nearby beach "Baia dei Turchi", which I still dream of on long winter days.
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10. Santa Cesarea Terme
Santa Cesarea is not only a beautiful coastal town but most notably home to large thermal baths with healing waters stemming from four grottoes and drawing visitors from all over Italy and beyond.
11. Santa Maria di Leuca
If you love the idea of standing on the southeastern most tip of Italy, where the waters of two seas meet and mingle (Adriatic and Ionian), then a trip down to Santa Maria di Leuca is necessary!
The iconic lighthouse stands next to the Basilica that was built on the site of a Roman temple.
Driving down the coast (from Lecce or Otranto) to Santa Maria di Leuca gives you the opportunity to stop in picturesque places like Castro, Porto Tricase or Porto Ciolo. On the Ionian coast, don't miss the crystal clear waters of Spiaggia di Pescoluse.
The iconic lighthouse stands next to the Basilica that was built on the site of a Roman temple.
Driving down the coast (from Lecce or Otranto) to Santa Maria di Leuca gives you the opportunity to stop in picturesque places like Castro, Porto Tricase or Porto Ciolo. On the Ionian coast, don't miss the crystal clear waters of Spiaggia di Pescoluse.
12. Gallipoli
The name "Gallipoli" originates from the Greek "Kallipolis" for "beautiful city". And, as you will undoubtedly notice immediately upon arrival, the city certainly lives up to its name!
Gallipoli is a perfect base for exploring the western coast of Italy's heel. The city center is atmospheric and authentic, large enough so you can wander quite a while through its narrow streets or along its seafront perimeter. Brace yourself for ferocious winds! Visit the Castle and head to the nearby fresh fish market for scents and tastes that will linger with you long after you've left.
Its city beach is beautiful and clean, with a gentle curve that makes you feel as though you've stepped right up to the threshold of a painting hanging framed in front of you. Return at sunset to fall in love with the sky and the tide.
Gallipoli is also close to other awe-inspiring beaches along the coast, such as Baia Verde or Punta della Suina with its dunes and wild greenery.
Gallipoli is a perfect base for exploring the western coast of Italy's heel. The city center is atmospheric and authentic, large enough so you can wander quite a while through its narrow streets or along its seafront perimeter. Brace yourself for ferocious winds! Visit the Castle and head to the nearby fresh fish market for scents and tastes that will linger with you long after you've left.
Its city beach is beautiful and clean, with a gentle curve that makes you feel as though you've stepped right up to the threshold of a painting hanging framed in front of you. Return at sunset to fall in love with the sky and the tide.
Gallipoli is also close to other awe-inspiring beaches along the coast, such as Baia Verde or Punta della Suina with its dunes and wild greenery.
13. Porto Cesareo & Torre Lapillo
West of Lecce, on the Ionian side between Taranto and Gallipoli is a paradise called Porto Cesareo. I hope you're a fan of loose itineraries that leave room for unexpected changes, because the beach may hold you hostage. We extended our stay in Porto Cesareo (as we had also done in Polignano and Otranto) and were put up by a sweet local couple because all the b&bs were already booked for the night!
The long, sandy, shallow beaches with their dunes, islets and reefs are a marine protected area. Head north to Torre Lapillo, a favorite among locals. For more secluded stretches of beach (especially early in the mornings) visit Punta Prosciutto.
Directly across from Porto Cesareo, you'll find a tiny island called Isola dei Conigli (rabbit island). You can take a boat trip there and explore the island's cypress, pine and acacia trees. There is also a public beach on the island.
The long, sandy, shallow beaches with their dunes, islets and reefs are a marine protected area. Head north to Torre Lapillo, a favorite among locals. For more secluded stretches of beach (especially early in the mornings) visit Punta Prosciutto.
Directly across from Porto Cesareo, you'll find a tiny island called Isola dei Conigli (rabbit island). You can take a boat trip there and explore the island's cypress, pine and acacia trees. There is also a public beach on the island.
14. Porto Selvaggio
Just south of Porto Cesareo lies the National park of Porto Selvaggio, a jagged stretch of coastline between three towers (Torre dell'Alto, Torre Uluzzo and Torre Inserraglio) and a beach nestled in a rocky cove. The contrast between the vivid green cliffs and deep blue sea is a feast for the eyes. If traveling there by car, you park on the road and walk the rest of the way, through the dense forest. The protected area is home to many wild animals, different species of birds and varieties of trees. Underwater and exposed caves are of archaeological and paleontological importance due to the remains that have been uncovered. If you love nature, plan a daytrip to this stunning area.
Have you been to Puglia? Is it on your bucket list? Leave a comment and let me know what you think of this list!
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