When the pandemic hit, I found myself, like many of you, cancelling trips, concerts and events that were sure to make 2020 a memorable year. Whenever possible, I postponed rather than cancelled, knowing that these destinations and businesses would need our support in the months to come.

That's how my April birthday retreat became an autumn getaway at Estérel Resort.

A luxury hotel and spa in the Laurentian mountains just north of Montreal, Estérel offered the perfect setting to relax, unwind, enjoy gourmet meals and bask in the sun as summer gently turns into fall.

I was happy to notice, immediately upon arrival, that all the guidelines for health and safety were being closely followed. Visitors' temperature was taken at the entrance. Staff members were professional and attentive, working extra hard to ensure that the site was immaculately clean, that lawn chairs, tables, life-vests and even pens were routinely disinfected, and that social distancing was being respected in all the pools and indoors. At the time of my stay, masks were mandatory indoors. 

Although the three saunas are temporarily closed to prevent outbreaks, visitors can still enjoy several hot tubs, the polar bath and two outdoor pools, in addition to the three lakes: Lac Dupuis, Lac Masson and Lac du Nord.

The summer water activities (pedalo, paddleboard, canoe, kayak, bike or motor boat) are available until mid-October, until they get replaced by winter activities (skiing, snowshoeing, ice skating). If you're in the mood to leave the grounds, you can enjoy the nearby Parc Estérel hiking trails or go golfing. ​

Estérel Resort offers many wonderful packages to its guests, depending on their interests and mood. I had booked the Emotion Suite "Cocooning" Package for my birthday, which included several tasting platters and full breakfast delivered straight to my suite!

I really did feel a bit like royalty, sitting in my suite facing a see-through fireplace, with floor-to-ceiling windows looking out onto the spa, the lake and the surrounding countryside. 

​The gourmet platter was quite a treat, with oysters, foie gras, a selection of local cheeses, a selection of local pâtés, beef tartare, smoked white fish, lobster rolls, grilled vegetables, prosciutto and melon, caramelized nuts and dried fruit, all served with toasted crostini and warm bread rolls. 

If you don't feel like dining in your room, the resort has three high-end restaurants and a wine cellar to choose from, each of them offering special gastronomic experiences and tasting menus with wine pairings tailored for you by on-site sommeliers. 

I do recommend having breakfast in bed at least once, though. Early in the morning, the setting becomes all the more enchanting. I woke up with the sunrise and my senses were overwhelmed by the fiery colors, the mystical fog on the lake and the cacophony of geese, ducks and crows. 

After getting a little chill by the lake after sunrise, I was happy to crawl back into bed with the fireplace lit to enjoy the abundant breakfast that was served at my suite. Didn't someone once say that waffles taste better in bed? No? I'll say it, then, because it's true. 

And I'm beginning to think that coffee tastes better in the countryside.

The thermal spa is open until 11 pm every night, so you can wake up with the sun and fall asleep to your TV after a toasty warm night soak under the stars. (The fireplace in the room is on a timer, so you don't even need to get up to turn it off!)

It was a perfect weekend getaway. If you're itching to get into the countryside to see our spectacular autumn colors and feel like pampering yourself a little, I recommend Estérel Resort & Spa. You can do (and eat!) as much or as little as you want, while taking some time to relax your mind and body. 

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Silvestro never stops learning and researching. In his downtime every year, he spends two months travelling the south by bicycle to research southern Italian wine and to learn directly from local producers. It was on those bicycle trips that Silvestro realized that so much of what he wants to teach cannot possibly be summarized on a chalkboard in a class. Instead, he felt inspired to create a television series to bring the intricacies of southern Italy to us, straight into our homes. 

Silvestro's passion for video is not a secret. For years, I've been a fan of his short educational films on different facets of the region. Through Silvestro's creativity and compelling storytelling, I've learned about topics like rosè, baroque architecture, wine tasting, how to read an Italian wine label, how to choose a knife, how to make orecchiette, and how geology influences wine. 

I can't wait to see where his Terronia episodes will take us, how they will enchant us and make us yearn to discover these unique regions in a meaningful, sustainable way.

Silvestro has launched an IndieGoGo campaign to fund part of his ambitious project. I invite you to watch his trailer and read all about his project on his campaign page. If you're passionate about authentic travel and Italian culture, you can back his project and select a "perk" based on the grape that inspires you!

I have no doubt that Silvestro's creativity and multidisciplinary teaching style will leave a lasting impression on anyone who watches his Terronia series.
​Silvestro: I wish you the best in this passionate endeavor!

From my heart to yours,
Kristina

Imagine sleeping in a lighthouse on a tiny island where you feel like you are just a dot in the vast world. Imagine your ears being filled all day long with birdsong, wind and the sound of water spilling over mossy rocks. Imagine a day where your conception of time shifts to depend only on the sun and the tide, where the night sky is brighter and where your breaths are deeper than they have been in a long while.

On this little island in the middle of the St-Lawrence river in the Canadian province of Quebec, you'll be charmed by marine life and get a glimpse of what it was like to be a lighthouse keeper in the 19th century.

Across from Rivière-du-Loup, this enchanting archipelago is made up of three small islands: Le Gros Pot, Le Petit Pot and le Pot du Phare. Several other islands can be found nearby, like Hare Island (Ile aux Lièvres). The name for Brandy Pot island comes from sailors who thought the puddles of water pooled in pockets on the island's rocky shores looked like brandy.

Historically, the sailing conditions were challenging in this area of the St-Lawrence river; the currents were strong and the many small islands were difficult to see in the night and thick fog. Shipwrecks were far too common, so the construction of several lighthouses was commissioned. The Brandy Pot lighthouse was built in 1862 on the same rocky promontory where it proudly stands today. For 102 years, six keepers took turns enduring the harsh winters, strong winds and unpredictable weather. They committed their lives to the daily upkeep of the lighthouse, to shining its light through each long night, and guiding ships to safety. What an honor it must have been to be a lighthouse keeper, and what a privilege to have this grandiose view to call home. 

The lighthouse fell into disrepair after it was abandoned in 1964, when its light was automated and later rendered obsolete by a modern steel lighthouse tower built a few meters away. But the island was still rich with marine birds and vegetation, which led a group of biologists to join efforts in its preservation. Together, these biologists founded the non-profit organization Société Duvetnor, which gradually acquired several islands in the lower St-Lawrence and invested in the conservation of these bird sanctuaries.  

The aged Brandy Pot Lighthouse was renovated in 1989 according to its original architectural plans and fitted with a new lantern. What helped raise funds for its restoration was the Duvetnor organization's collection of down from the nests of the island's eider ducks each spring. The coveted down from these nests was exported to Europe where its value soared. To ensure the sustainability of these conservation efforts, the Government of Canada recently acquired the island from Duvetnor, though the non-profit organization continues to receive visitors in the three rooms of the historical lighthouse, as well as on the neighboring Hare Island (Ile aux Lièvres). Duvetnor's excursions and lodging serves their primary goal of wildlife conservation. 

Aboard the small ferry crossing over to the archipelago from Rivière-du-Loup, both the height of the waves and my childish excitement had butterflies fluttering wildly in my stomach. Smiling widely, I gripped the metal bar in front of my seat and watched through the soaked windows as a red and white structure slowly grew into view. I have loved lighthouses for as long as I could remember, and here was my chance to stay in one overnight. Two other couples were aboard the boat - hiking shoes, cameras and wine in tow. 

Before disembarking at the lighthouse, our guide Quentin gave us a tour of the archipelago, recounting historical facts to six faces who listened intently, punctuating some of his sentences with a shutter press to record these unique landscapes we felt so privileged to witness. 

When we docked at the lighthouse island and climbed up the long, steep ramp towards solid ground, my mind did all the photographing. The sun was low in the sky and the lighthouse was towering over us, greeting us as it had greeted countless unknown sailors in the past. To our backs, the river, the coastline far beyond our view. Around us, layers of rocks and trees and purple wildflowers, swaying in the fierce wind as though waving us on. Above us, seagulls making their presence known, taking an opportunity to remind us that they are in command here. 

Our gracious Duvetnor hosts welcomed us warmly and showed us to our cozy rooms, thoughtfully decorated in a way that grounded us in the history of the place. We were given a few minutes to get settled and then taken on a walking tour of the island's trails, which are accessible only after the nesting season ends in July. 

The light was magical and we felt blessed to have a perfect view of the horizon, as it had been extremely foggy the day before. Our guide took us along the paths to different lookouts, pointing out the different vegetation and various mysteries of the island, like a cross planted in the middle of the forest. 

My favorite lookout point was "La Chaloupe", which won my heart in that light and won it over again the next morning shortly after sunrise. 

After our walk, we had free time to walk around, sit on the terrace or climb to the top of the lighthouse tower.

Soon, it came time for dinner to be served. We were spoiled with a four-course meal, each dish prepared with local ingredients and fresh garden herbs (in this case, their "garden" being a whole island!). Warm bread, a charcuterie & cheese board, ginger carrot soup, salmon on a bed of wild rice, and a homemade chocolate cake for dessert. 

As we sat in the dining room, the sky put on a symphony of colors to remind us of how blessed we were, in case we had forgotten. We dined for hours, our cheeks cool from the fresh air, the spice of the meal lingering on our lips, our elbows propped on a table we shared with visitors from across the globe who were strangers just hours ago but now were topping up our glasses of wine as though we were old friends. 

We bundled up in all our layers to brave the wind and stepped onto the terrace. Somewhere between the coffee and the last glass of wine, the island had become draped with the perfect night sky - a speckled dome that made us forget Instagram and work and all the pressures of past and future. 

We fell asleep early, suddenly wiped by the excitement and all that our senses had experienced. I woke up in the middle of the night and smiled when I discovered that the electricity had been turned off (as it is solar-powered). I felt refreshed by the stillness of the night and of my mind.

I woke up to join the seagulls at 5am to welcome the sun. I have only caught a handful of sunrises in my life so far. As I'm not a morning person, witnessing sunsets is a much more realistic goal! But what a treat, a feast for the eyes and ears, as I stood there feeling totally undeserving of that miraculous view, watching as the seagulls loudly celebrated the promise of a brand new day. 

Duvetnor must know that fresh air and early sunrises make you hungry! To remedy this, they serve not one but two breakfasts! A light breakfast of fruits and fresh croissants is served at 6am, followed by a more substantial breakfast with eggs and meats at 8am. In between, and afterwards, you're free to enjoy the paths or laze around the lighthouse. I took the opportunity to return to "La Chaloupe" again, where I sat on the rocks for a while and watched the birds go about their morning. I always love to return to the spots that inspire me to see how they change with the changing light and changing tides, and this little gem of a place was no exception.  

When it came time to leave, to walk down that same ramp and say farewell to those views, I felt a pinch in my heart. I watched as the new set of six visitors disembarked, their faces looking around in awe as we had done. It was like coming out of a movie at the theater, wanting to exclaim, "It was so good!" but refraining so as not to spoil anything for them.

In fact, it may seem like I've shared a lot with you here, but I have been conscious not to spoil anything for you. The truth of the matter is, you must go and see - no, feel - this for yourself. Visit the Duvetnor website for all the information you need on Iles du Pot and Ile aux Lièvres. You can also follow them on Facebook or Instagram for updates.

If you do book a stay on these islands, here are 7 things you may want to pack:
- Your camera
- Your childish enthusiasm
- A battery pack (to charge your phone at night without electricity)
- Something to read 
- Hiking shoes 
- A windbreaker and/or hoodie
- Wine

I hope you enjoyed this virtual tour of a place that truly won my heart!

Have you been here or somewhere similar? Leave a comment! I would love to hear from you. 

Some experiences ​make you feel like a child again. 

Gazing up at the sky in wonder at the International Balloon Festival of St Jean sur Richelieu, I felt like I was six, with cotton candy on my fingers, a clip barely holding my messy sunkissed hair, a wide smile frozen on my face and a giddy fluttering sensation in my belly. What a wondrous thing, to be launched into the sky at dusk with only a general sense of direction, knowing full well that the winds could change at any moment, not knowing at all where or how exactly the landing would take place. 

That is the fate of some hundred hot air balloons of different colors, patterns and shapes that are sent into the sky with their passengers twice a day at this festival, at the mercy of the strength and direction of the winds. As the announcer explained to all of us gathered on site to watch the spectacular launch around 6pm, winds tend to be higher in speed at ground level than at high altitudes, and tend to drop as the sun dips in the sky when it sets. While they can send up balloon probes and measure the winds with fancy instruments, there still remains an element of uncertainty and surprise that the actual hot air balloons can only experience directly once high over our heads. 

It takes great skill and experience to inflate and man these balloons. Some of the special shaped balloons like animals or characters are much thicker in material and trickier to fill. It is astonishing to watch them come to life in a vast field as they slowly grow from folded up parachutes tucked inside little trucks until the flag is finally waved. An orange flag means they are testing the winds and will reach a decision about the flight path soon. A green flag means the balloons are ready for liftoff! The "pursuit" crews climb into their trucks to follow the balloons to wherever they land. And so the balloons are pulled and held and filled and fueled, until suddenly they glide up, up and away gracefully over hundreds of waving hands and shrieking voices aged 6 through 60. 

The announcer animates the take-off, introducing sponsors and presenting facts, all of which makes the experience even more captivating. 

And though you know they are gliding steadily through space, the balloons somehow look suspended in time, hanging like teardrops, like wishes, like dreams about to come true.

You look up, making a memory, recording the perfectly orchestrated scene of balloons, birds and the gentle breeze in the setting sun. You feel connected through an invisible portal to all those who gathered to witness hot air balloon flights in history, going all the way back to Paris in 1783. 

When the balloons are far on the horizon, there is still much fun to be had, with vast fair grounds, virtual reality demonstrations, food trucks, lounge areas and a live concert on a big stage. The park is full without being crowded, and everyone seems happy. I can't think of a better way to spend a mid-August evening. 

Yearning for a trip to Italy soon?

You may be looking at awe-inspiring destinations like the Italian Riviera, the Amalfi coast or Tuscany, but have you considered a trip to Italy's idyllic heel instead?

In the southern region of Puglia and its Salento peninsula, your senses will be overwhelmed and delighted with sweeping coastlines, stunning beaches, labyrinthian old towns, savory local delicacies and memorable wines. You'll ease into a whole other rhythm of Italian life (forget the bustle of Milano and Rome!) and, if you do it right, you'll discover gems that many Italians have yet to explore. 

Italy's heel has a longer coastline than other regions of Italy's mainland, and is bordered by both the Adriatic Sea and the Ionian Sea. Sure, Puglia is home to well-known destinations like its capital Bari, the baroque city of Lecce nicknamed 'Florence of the South' and to the iconic town of Alberobello known for its conical trulli houses. But what makes the region unforgettable is all the places, treasures and feelings in between... and I am here to tell you about them!

In its whitewashed towns and enchanting countryside dotted with millions of olive trees, I promise you will be tempted to stay... or, at the very least, to make plans (almost immediately) to return. ​

I dare you to go to Polignano and tell me upon your return that this place did not tug on your heart. (Challenge accepted?)

Polignano is only about 30 minutes from Bari and easily reachable by train.
​
Polignano is the perfect setting for slow wandering and sea-gazing. Perched atop limestone cliffs overlooking deep blue waters, Polignano has several beautiful lookout points that will make your heart pound. Certainly don't miss the Balconata sul Mare. The town has a Greek feeling to its architecture and color palette. Take time to find the charming Vicolo della Poesia with a staircase featuring poetry by Bari writer "Guido Il Flâneur". In fact, if you are attentive to your surroundings, you'll find bits of his poetry on doors and walls throughout the old town. 

The beach itself (Cala Porto) is small and pebbly, but picturesque. Float on your back and watch the light change on the stone cliffs and its stacked houses. You can rent a bike from Polignano Made in Love and cycle to other nearby beaches and cute towns like San Vito. 

And, if you really want to make a memory, go for lunch (or a more formal supper) at the Grotta Palazzese - a restaurant tucked in a cave where you have water spilling in on both sides of its terrace. Quick tip: Be sure to dress adequately (no swimsuits) and warmly, as it can be cool and clammy in the cave, especially after you've been in the hot sun. Also be prepared to spend a LOT for the same "simple" (though extremely fresh) food and wine you've been inexpensively savoring all over Puglia. ​

Continuing further down the Adriatic coast, Monopoli is basically teleport distance from Polignano, not even 15 minutes away by train! 

If you love charming fishing towns and rugged beaches, spending time in Monopoli will do you good! In the morning and evening, enjoy the harbor, the small red lighthouse, the winding streets and the medieval walls surrounding the city. In the afternoon, grab your car or bike to explore nearby beaches, some of them more rugged than others: Cala Porta Vecchia, Cala Cozze, Porto Verde, Cala Paradiso, La Scaletta, Tre Buchi or Porto Marzano.

Remember that public beaches allow you to plop down your towel and umbrella freely on the sand or cliffs, whereas private beaches ("lido") will ask you to rent a spot for the day. 

Ostuni is nicknamed "The White City" and is incredibly gorgeous both from afar and within its winding, inclined streets. Stacked upon a hilltop, Ostuni keeps a watchful eye over the Adriatic and the vast olive groves below. If you love narrow alleyways, dead-ends that open up onto secret courtyards and secret gardens, pretty doors and windows, and whitewashed houses that look even paler against the blue of the Sun and Sea, then Ostuni will undoubtedly enchant you. Climb to the top to see the Duomo or head to the lookout on Corso Vittorio Emanuele II for panoramic views of the city.

A UNESCO world heritage site, it would be difficult to complete a Puglia itinerary without a stop in Alberobello. While these cone-shaped limestone "trulli" buildings are scattered throughout the region, the dense cluster of them in Alberobello is what brings visitors to this town. Today, the trulli have been converted into restaurants, souvenir shops and even accommodations. That's right - you can stay in a trullo overnight if that's something on your bucket list! 

Alberobello can feel overwhelmingly touristy, but it is worth seeing as it is quite unique. If you want to step away from the touristic center, explore the Rione Aia Piccola area. From there, you could also enjoy views over Alberobello. 

If you visited Polignano and Ostuni first, you may have given either of them the title of "prettiest town in Puglia". And then you come to Locorotondo, and suddenly you're tempted to reassign the title! 

Quiet and slow, Locorotondo is the perfect place to spend a few hours taking a mindful stroll, taking in the vista of the surrounding countryside, and savoring an outdoor lunch with a glass of their renowned sparking white wine at one of the welcoming trattorie in the old town. 

Larger and busier than its neighboring villages, Martina Franca is another town in the Valle d'Itria that is definitely worth your time. Surrounded by fortifications and several preserved Renaissance and Baroque gates, Martina Franca's elegant architecture, pretty streets and wide squares will inspire you.

​Look up, look around and look back to take in all the beautiful balconies, archways and shutters. Watch and listen to locals as they go about their day. Let your eyes flit over the symphony of Baroque details of the Basilica di S. Martino and the Chiesa di San Domenico. 

Every summer, Martina Franca hosts the Festival della Valle d'Itria opera festival. 

No trip to Puglia is complete without visiting its "big city". Despite its size and elegance, Lecce is laid-back and low-key, perfect for exploring and experiencing at a relaxed pace. Strolling its golden streets, you'll notice that they are plenty of sights to take in, plenty of ornate baroque details to swoon over. You'll encounter several blasts from the past with roman ruins, columns, noteworthy museums and gorgeous city gates around Lecce's old town. Outside the old town's cobblestone lanes, you can unwind in one of the city's spacious parks. There is no shortage of interesting places to eat and drink in Lecce - stay tuned on the blog for a local's recommendations! 

It is easy to fall in love with Otranto and want to extend your stay. The large waterfront piazza is a beautiful place to start and end your day. The main city beach is not far to the left of it, but there is also a wonderful place to swim and sunbathe (if you don't mind putting your towel down on rocks or concrete instead of sand) closer to the port. The irregular-shaped Castello and its moat are worth visiting, and provide stunning views over old seafront town. The Cathedral (Santa Maria Annunziata) is famous for its "Tree of Life" mosaic floor, and the Chiesa di San Pietro is a gorgeous little church with Byzantine frescoes. Climb up for breathtaking views of the sunset before you head for supper. After dark, Otranto comes alive with families strolling the promenade until late. 

A highlight of my Salento trip was the nearby beach "Baia dei Turchi", which I still dream of on long winter days. 

Santa Cesarea is not only a beautiful coastal town but most notably home to large thermal baths with healing waters stemming from four grottoes and drawing visitors from all over Italy and beyond. 

If you love the idea of standing on the southeastern most tip of Italy, where the waters of two seas meet and mingle (Adriatic and Ionian), then a trip down to Santa Maria di Leuca is necessary!

The iconic lighthouse stands next to the Basilica that was built on the site of a Roman temple. 

Driving down the coast (from Lecce or Otranto) to Santa Maria di Leuca gives you the opportunity to stop in picturesque places like Castro, Porto Tricase or Porto Ciolo. On the Ionian coast, don't miss the crystal clear waters of Spiaggia di Pescoluse. 

The name "Gallipoli" originates from the Greek "Kallipolis" for "beautiful city". And, as you will undoubtedly notice immediately upon arrival, the city certainly lives up to its name!

Gallipoli is a perfect base for exploring the western coast of Italy's heel. The city center is atmospheric and authentic, large enough so you can wander quite a while through its narrow streets or along its seafront perimeter. Brace yourself for ferocious winds! Visit the Castle and head to the nearby fresh fish market for scents and tastes that will linger with you long after you've left. 

​Its city beach is beautiful and clean, with a gentle curve that makes you feel as though you've stepped right up to the threshold of a painting hanging framed in front of you. Return at sunset to fall in love with the sky and the tide. 

Gallipoli is also close to other awe-inspiring beaches along the coast, such as Baia Verde or Punta della Suina with its dunes and wild greenery.

West of Lecce, on the Ionian side between Taranto and Gallipoli is a paradise called Porto Cesareo. I hope you're a fan of loose itineraries that leave room for unexpected changes, because the beach may hold you hostage. We extended our stay in Porto Cesareo (as we had also done in Polignano and Otranto) and were put up by a sweet local couple because all the b&bs were already booked for the night!

The long, sandy, shallow beaches with their dunes, islets and reefs are a marine protected area. Head north to Torre Lapillo, a favorite among locals. For more secluded stretches of beach (especially early in the mornings) visit Punta Prosciutto.  

Directly across from Porto Cesareo, you'll find a tiny island called Isola dei Conigli (rabbit island). You can take a boat trip there and explore the island's cypress, pine and acacia trees. There is also a public beach on the island. 

Just south of Porto Cesareo lies the National park of Porto Selvaggio, a jagged stretch of coastline between three towers (Torre dell'Alto, Torre Uluzzo and Torre Inserraglio) and a beach nestled in a rocky cove. The contrast between the vivid green cliffs and deep blue sea is a feast for the eyes. If traveling there by car, you park on the road and walk the rest of the way, through the dense forest. The protected area is home to many wild animals, different species of birds and varieties of trees. Underwater and exposed caves are of archaeological and paleontological importance due to the remains that have been uncovered. If you love nature, plan a daytrip to this stunning area. 

As you may know from following me here and on Instagram, I traveled to Nova Scotia, Canada for the first time this summer. I loved the experience and felt totally rejuvenated by the fresh air, scrumptious seafood, warm people and breathtaking landscapes. I launched my Nova Scotia collection upon my return and it has already made its way into many of your homes! 

This one seems rather obvious, but walking the Halifax harbour end-to-end was one of the highlights of my trip. Eating on-site at one of the food shacks (fresh lobster rolls and other casual foods) is quite fun . If you enjoy handcrafted ales, I recommend the Gahan House Harbourfront brewery or the Stubborn Goat Beer Garden where you could sit outside and take in the beautiful view! 

The hilly drive toward Blomidon Provincial Park offers stunning views which make you feel tiny. At low tide, it all looks even more mystical, and I am fairly sure you will find yourself in awe of the scenery. Driving along the coast to Digby takes about two hours. You can reward yourself with the infamous Digby scallops upon arrival. 

Once in a while, you stumble upon a small but significant place that just steals your heart. Halls Harbour is special and quite possibly underrated compared to places such as Peggy's Cove. The windy and rainy weather set the mood for our visit. The more we tried to approach the ocean, stumbling on the rocks and pebbles that filled the shore at low tide, the more we felt like we were on another planet. A quaint fishing village, the harbour is lovely to walk around. Then, you reach the main waterfront restaurant, the Halls Harbour Lobster Pound, where you could choose your own lobster and (unless you get attached to him) take him to the cookhouse. 

If you're a wine lover, you'll LOVE the Annapolis valley. The valley is located between two mountain ranges and one of the first areas to grow and cultivate grapes in North America. You can get a passport booklet called "The Nova Scotia Good Cheer Trail" which gives you a list of all the wineries and brewing companies, and allows you to collect stamps to win prizes in return. I loved the service we received at the Planters' Ridge Winery and the gorgeous views at the Luckett Vineyards. On my bucket list for next time: a hot air balloon ride over the valley which ends in a wine-tasting event. Yes, please. 

What a lovely family-friendly place to spend a few hours. It's so peaceful to walk the shore and beachcomb during low-tide, visit the local shops filled with art and other mementos, and grab a fresh lunch. For a casual but delicious bite, try What's the Scoop takeout. 

Only a ten-minute drive from Fisherman's Cove is Rainbow Haven Beach Provincial Park (Cole Harbour), a long, sandy beach (with some pebbles) with a long boardwalk over sand dunes. 

Lawrencetown Beach is about a half-hour away from Fisherman's Cove and Halifax. A surfer's beach with strong waves and currents, it's a beautiful place to take in the dramatic scenery. The beach is composed both of sand and large pebbles. 

World-famous Peggy's Cove! And, once you see it, you'll understand why. This place somehow pulls on the heartstrings. 

Try to avoid crowds by getting an early start, and take your time walking around the harbour and around the lighthouse. It's worth exploring different vantage points and just feeling like a small dot against a vast ocean. The town has done a great job at putting up signs that explain the history of the place and how the houses have been built. We ate a delicious hot dog from "Peggy's Dogs", an awesome stand run by Claire who also owns an inn in Peggy's Cove. ​

Mahone Bay was lovely and larger than expected, with wonderful shops (art, home decor, antiques, jewelry) to discover. From there, colorful Lunenburg is only a fifteen-minute drive away. A UNESCO World Heritage Site, Lunenburg charmed us with its architecture, shop-filled streets, bustling waterfront and, of course, the Bluenose II (a replica of the iconic racing boat you see on our Canadian dime). 

The waterfront is a mix of old and new, with modern eateries sharing the space with the Museum of the Atlantic and an old warehouse. 

If you love oysters, don't miss out on the mouth-watering food (and wine) at the Half Shell Oyster Bar. The view isn't half bad, either!

Martinique Beach Provincial Park has a vast (5km) white beach. It is the longest sandy beach in Nova Scotia. It tends to be colder and windier there because of its open area, so pack accordingly! It's a lovely place to fly a kite or have a picnic.

Cape Breton Island deserves a post of its own, as there are so many points of interest, especially if you enjoy hiking. You may know there is a whole discussion about whether to drive the Cabot Trail clockwise or counterclockwise. Truthfully, it's not the end of the world if you do it clockwise (even though you'll be on the opposite side of the road from the sweeping views), because there are so many easily accessible lookout points to pull off into along the dramatic coastline. 

Personal highlights on the west coast of the Cabot Trail included Inverness, Chéticamp, the Highlands, Cap-Rouge, the Skytrail (hold onto your hat!) and Pleasant Bay. I can't wait to return to explore the East Coast! Cape Breton is a place you'll be making plans to return to before even having left. 

Have you been to Nova Scotia? What are some of your favorite places?
Leave a comment, I would love to know!

"If you are not drinking widely, you’re not doing it right. It’s like watching the same DVD, night after night."

Silvestro Silvestori's advice on wine stems as much from passion as from expertise.

​Silvestro is a sommelier, cook, food writer and photographer. He owns and runs one of the best culinary schools in Italy - the Awaiting Table - set in baroque Lecce, the heart of Puglia's Salento region. I met Silvestro during my travels across Italy's heel, where, between lessons on making fresh orecchiette and preparing a savoury rabbit dish, I got a beautiful taste of the region's culture, and of how its geography, history, climate and people have influenced the food and drink of the land. 

"Well-made wine reflects the very specific patch of earth that produces it," Silvestro explains. "I happen to think that Southern Italy is the most intriguing wine region of the world right now. Thousands of years of wine history. Cuisines that grew up alongside the wine for just as long. Modern technology (the autoclave has changed wine more than the arrival of the oak barrel or maybe even the glass bottle and cork). And the profound local wisdom in vineyard management (a lot of our vines are still grown as free-standing trees). You might have more limousine-style wine tourism in other regions of Italy, but I challenge you to find a more compelling combination of place, grape, weather and people."

When asked whether southern Italian wines are overlooked by the world and perhaps even by the rest of Italy, Silvestro's answer is as objective as possible. "Where in Italy has wine been produced the longest? Who produces the most? Both of those answers point to the south (4,000 years of wine production, with Sicily and Puglia toggling back and forth between the highest production in all of Italy). Longer and more than anyone else on the peninsula. You can’t argue regional chauvinism on this one! 

​The biggest change in Southern Italy is that foreign tourism is starting to better mimic domestic tourism, and domestic tourism has always been crazy about the south. Puglia has been Italy’s number one domestic tourism destination for the last 20 years, and people want to drink wine from places that they have been."

Silvestro's descriptions of his favorite wine varieties leave you wanting to taste them all.

"My three favourite Southern wines are based on: 

1) Nerello Mascalese, the red of Etna, easily the most beguiling wine region in the world right now. Like Burgundy, but yet to be charted. Lava flows differently and it affects the wine. Travel a hundred meters and it’s different. And when the wine reflects a very specific field, wine drinking is at its zenith.
 
2) Aglianico del Vulture, another volcanic wine, round and elegant. Arguably the most important wine grape of the south. One of the few southern wines that really benefits from barrel and bottle age. It’s what I have set aside for my own next big round birthday. You could double the price and they would still be asking too little.

3) Salice Salentino, the only blend here (a field blend, that is, planted that way and then all harvested at once. Classically, every fifth row is malvasia nera, the other four, il negroamaro). I used to have it as my blood type on my health card here in Italy. If your diet is based on big and brawny vegetables (radicchio, chicory, dandelion greens) like mine is, this is the simple choice. 

A food and wine pairing that Silvestro can't do without involves a white wine indigenous to Sicily. "I love carricante (the volcanic white of Etna) and grilled langoustines. Carricante - if you haven’t had it - is like ice cold river rocks in your mouth. And few things make my mouth gush quite like the salty minerals of this wine, coupled with the smoky char of grilled lobster shells."

But red and white are not the only worthwhile options. Silvestro explains how rosè - or rosato as it's called in the south - is celebrated year round. 

"To understand rosato, you have to understand how one culture borrows from another, almost always radically altering it along the way. (Italian restaurants offer cappuccini for dessert whereas, in Italy, only for breakfast, etc.) Rosato in the south is a year-round wine. It's not linked to a season, activity or location (e.g., 'Sitting on the patio in summer, I love a good rosè!'). Grilled mackerel in February is as appropriate as a table just off the beach in August.

The oldest, most established rosè culture in all of Italy is the Salento. They have been bottled here longer than in any other part of Italy. The sedimentary rock makes them darker, and the fact that we're mostly at sea level, they are ripe and stony.

Getting the feeling while reading this that we might be missing out in North America? Well, we are, according to Silvestro.

"Wine in North America is complicated by provincial monopolies in Canada and the cultural and legal residue of Prohibition in the States. Why drinkers there don’t storm the hills with pitchforks, I don’t know. You’re not getting most of the good stuff. When I travel, the first place I go is to visit the Italian wine aisle. Most of the time, I know little of it, as most of Italy exports wines that we locals don’t drink. Most of my friends are producers and I rarely know any of the wines on foreign shelves, in spite of the addresses given being close to home."

The Awaiting Table offers a wide range of cooking, wine and olive oil courses, with new and exciting options being added every year. Silvestro also offers a "Terronia: Southern Italian wine" course, which introduces you to the indigenous grape varietals and wines of Sicily, Calabria, Basilicata and Puglia.

"Our wine course is an extension of our bicycle trip through southern Italian wine country that we offer every year. We learn about soil, pruning, harvest, fermentation, aging and tasting. We learn about Southern Italy, its food and history. And drink a lot of wine. And yes, we follow our own advice. First we learn a great deal, and THEN we drink like Albanian truck drivers at your cousin’s wedding. You might rethink that optional travel insurance for this one."

As someone who has been to the Awaiting Table, I can personally vouch for Silvestro's courses and teaching style. What better way to learn about a region than from an accredited sommelier and chef who is as passionate about it as those who work the soil?

To daydream and learn a little more before you book your trip to Puglia, check out Silvestro's wonderful videos on YouTube.

Summer is nearly in full swing and, if you're like me, by now you are seriously craving the sea. That precious feeling of overwhelmed senses, of long days and long evenings, of a horizon stretching endlessly in front of you, and of sunshine and heat rejuvenating your body and mind. There are three things in life that make me breathe most deeply, and standing on a shore is one of them.

This is the time of year where I like to pretend the world is my oyster, and pick a destination to explore, following my seafaring urges. I have always secretly envied my Italian friends and colleagues who have a month-long ritual built into their culture so they can enjoy the seaside every August, guilt-free, without having to travel all that far. It's not always easy to get away, but it does a world of good. ​

This Monday's dose of inspiration is dedicated to some of my favorite beaches. Looking at these images, I immediately feel nostalgic of the time I spent in those waters. Who knows, they might inspire your travel plans in the near future!

Agios Stefanos, Corfu island, Greece

Baia dei Turchi, Otranto, Salento, Italy

Punta Prosciutto, near Lecce, Salento, Italy

Dona Ana, Lagos, Algarve, Portugal

Is one of these destinations on your bucket list? Let me know in a comment. 

Have a beautiful week!

From my heart to yours.

Three weeks in Puglia.

I set out on a long-awaited trip to a region of Italy I had yet to explore. 

​My itinerary consisted of a dozen towns along both the Adriatic and Ionian coasts of Italy’s stiletto, as well as some inland gems. There was enough room in the itinerary for spontaneous adjustments and unexpected discoveries, and it was certainly a priority to sense and savour every ounce of local culture. 

​One of the cities I was excited about discovering in Puglia and the Salento peninsula was Lecce – a historic hub known as “The Florence of the South” for its splendid baroque architecture. While still in Canada, I looked up cooking and wine courses that would allow me to learn about the regional specialties in a more hands-on way. A Google search landed me on The Awaiting Table – a then eleven-year-old school that had glowing Trip Advisor reviews. I lost myself on the website, reading about the school’s approach and its variety of courses. The most appealing ones were a week long, either in central Lecce or in a historic Castello. There were specialized courses focusing on wine, bicycling and cooking, making tomato sauce or making olive oil – I loved the idea of every one of them! 

​I would only be in Lecce for 3 days, so I’d only have enough time for a day-course. My dates weren’t on the class calendar, but I decided to send an enthusiastic and hopeful e-mail (I could barely contain my excitement after having discovered this school!) to inquire anyway. Silvestro, the owner, was so accommodating, and – before I knew it –  I had a day-course booked in my name.

​The city was slowly coming to life, though circling pigeons and a scorching sun had already dominated the sky for some time. Silvestro came to pick us up in Piazza Sant-Oronzo, a large wicker basket in hand. We set out to the market to choose our fresh ingredients for both lunch and supper. The immersive learning had already begun without notice; as we walked through Lecce’s ochre-toned streets, Silvestro pointed out landmarks and described life in the town, his explanations punctuated by waves and nods to fellow locals who passed us by. “There goes Silvestro and a new batch of students,” I imagined them thinking. Through conversation and abridged life histories, we began to get a sense of Silvestro’s passion for Puglia and the basic principles of salentine food, which I like to think of as simplicity, authenticity and loyalty to the land. 

​We passed Porta Rudiae, Lecce’s oldest city gate, and walked into the market. Cesare greeted Silvestro and our mission began. The menu was set; Silvestro had all the necessary ingredients in mind for each course. “We need parsley,” he’d say to me, prompting me to ask Cesare for a batch of it. This interchange was repeated for each required ingredient. Silvestro took care of ordering the rabbit, and we were off – wicker basket filled to the brim and hands eager to get to work. 

​“That’s Emiluccia,” Silvestro affectionately pointed out his Fiat 500 when we crossed his courtyard. The day-course takes place at Silvestro’s house, in a kitchen he created from scratch from an old stable. Stepping into the kitchen was like stepping into an authentic, colorful, picture-perfect cookbook – only better. In just my style of colorful, functional décor, the walls were adorned with colorful colanders, wooden cutting boards, pots and pans, and some of Silvestro’s photographs. Bowls, utensils and other appliances were labelled in Italian to allow foreign students to pick up some new vocabulary during their stay.  A cool natural light poured in from the garden. We emptied our groceries onto the marble counter and Silvestro began to explain what we would cook for lunch. I tried to focus, but my senses were completely overwhelmed in that kitchen! I asked Silvestro if I could take a couple of quick photos before getting started. “It’s so beautiful, it’s distracting,” I laughed. 

​In the meantime, Silvestro poured the wine and prepared our cutting boards for us to begin making our fresh pasta. We wore aprons, rolled up our sleeves and got our hands involved without any hesitation. We learned by doing, our hands-on experience complemented by Silvestro’s explanations. Silvestro's priority was not only to teach, but also to take care of his guests; no question was unwelcome, no strategy was incorrect – all he asked in return was that we be happy in his kitchen. “There is only one rule here,” he told us.

Being happy was almost too easy. I couldn’t think of a better way to spend the day.  

My orecchiette were far from perfect; having watched local ladies effortlessly make hundreds of orecchiette by hand in front of their homes in Old Bari, I expected my hands to be faster and more successful than they actually were. “Track your progress,” Silvestro advised, lining up his own orecchiette chronologically on his cutting board. “You’ll see how you improve with practice”.

When time came to sit down, elbows resting peacefully on the colorful linen, we savoured our lunch, careful to eat slowly, conscious of the hours of thoughtful preparation. ​

In the late afternoon, Silvestro took us wine-shopping and gave us a crash course on the local varieties, their differences and individual strengths. Negroamaro, malvasia nera, salice salentino, primitivo…we made mental notes and anticipated the tastes of each variety.   
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We returned to the kitchen and began to prepare our supper. Silvestro took to the chalkboard, and gave us a short lesson on the “why” of salentine cuisine – the ways in which the food has been influenced by the region’s geography, climate and cultural contact over time. As we learned and cooked and drank and ate, we felt. We experienced a little bit of the local world view, and quickly realized that these are not simply recipes to discover or methods to learn, but a way of living and breathing.

What I loved most, perhaps, was that the conversations alternated flawlessly between getting to know one another and learning about cooking and wine. It was such a comfortable and inspiring setting, and it was genuinely easy to lose track of time.

As the evening aged, our voices grew quieter. There was an unmistakable temptation to help clear the plates and tidy the kitchen, as you would do with old friends who selflessly hosted you.
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As we said our thank yous and goodbyes, and headed out into the surprisingly lively Lecce night, I realized I got more out of that one-day course than I expected. I couldn’t stop talking about it for days to follow. I have since recommended it to friends, and I wholeheartedly recommend it to you.

​Through conversation and participation, hands-on practice, you internalize more than you thought possible in such a short time. When the time comes to leave, you do so with full stomachs, full hearts and overwhelmed senses, with flavors of food and wine still on your tongue, and new facts whirling about in your head, becoming consolidated as new knowledge. And, to your surprise, that initial sense of wonder and curiosity has not subsided but is even amplified, pushing you to make immediate plans to return.

The Awaiting Table has been around for fourteen years, but is constantly growing and improving; with Silvestro's creativity and intuitive sense of innovation, there is always a new kind of course being offered.
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To get a taste of the culture and everything there is to experience and to learn, treat yourself to some of Silvestro’s compelling short films and blog posts. Until you could get there yourself, they are sure to peek your interest and make you dream of Italy’s unspoiled heel.