Blog by Kristina Kasparian Veni Etiam Photography

Gems of the Côte d'Azur

30/10/2019

In my last post, I took you with me to beautiful Nice on the French Riviera. I explained why I fled there in mid-October, and shared some fun facts about the city's history, how I felt there and, of course, TONS of photos of its landscapes, local life and inspiring little details.

One of the reasons I was lured to Nice was because it is also the perfect hub to explore other jewels of the Côte d’Azur, many of which can be easily reached by bus, train or car.

When I launch my Côte d’Azur print collection next week, you’ll notice that 4 places on the coast really tugged on my heart among all the towns I had the chance to visit. Places speak to us in unexpected ways sometimes, and so much of our nostalgia depends on our own memories of that day, the light, the people and perhaps whether or not there was ice cream involved.

So, who knows which places on the Riviera will inspire YOU the most! You’ll have to see them all to pick your own favorites.

Here are 8 stunning places that should be on your Côte d’Azur itinerary!

1. Nice

When I close my eyes and think of Nice, I see her Promenade, the way the Sea changes its blue several times a day, the pizzas and ice creams, the window shutters and markets, the vast squares and narrow lanes, its dialect and busy port.

As I mentioned in my last post, Nice has the perfect mix between old and new, urban and maritime, French and Italian.

2. Villefranche, Cap Ferrat & Beaulieu sur Mer

A very short hop away from Nice are 3 beautiful coastal towns worth visiting. Villefranche-sur-Mer is a picturesque town with an old harbor that is considered one of the deepest natural harbors of the Mediterranean, on a bay sheltered from strong winds. Beaulieu-sur-Mer and Cap Ferrat are tranquil resort towns that you can consider retiring in when you've made your first million.

3. Eze

Spending time in the clifftop village of Èze was like being immersed in storybook pages. A village with ancient roots, it now is an atmospheric maze of shops, galleries and restaurants. Its warm color palette, textured architecture and pretty details suffice to overwhelm the heart from the first few moments of uphill climbing (which impacts the heart as well).

From the Jardin Exotique (Exotic Garden) designed on the site of the medieval Château d'Èze fortress, you can lose all track of time surrounded by succulents, cacti and plants from all corners of the world, growing and flowering along winding pathways, caves and waterfalls, guarded by graceful statues perched high above the Sea. The views from the garden stretch far into the blue horizon and down below to Èze-bord-de-Mer and its beach. I would certainly go back to Èze and spend a whole day in this garden.

If you'd like to walk down to the beach, there is a steep winding path from Èze-Village. The surface of the path (even within the village) is quite slippery, so choose your shoes wisely.

4. Menton

Right on the Italian border, Menton feels wonderfully Ligurian in its architecture and, arguably more importantly, its limoncello. The lemon is the symbol of the coastal town, though its gentle micro-climate is also favorable to mandarine and orange groves, which make equally delicious varieties of liquor.

Menton has a charming old town, marina, waterfront promenade, daily market and beaches. The climb up to the top of the Baroque Basilica is well worth the views, both of the town and the Sea.

Although it was mid-October, I took a deep breath and plunged into the Sea at the city beach just beneath the old town. As a local joked, after the first 30 minutes, the temperature of the water became more bearable. I didn't take pictures while floating on my back, but instead made a vivid memory of the stacked colored houses of the old town and the green hills surrounding it.

5. Monaco

Monaco is a must-see because of its world-renowned Monte-Carlo casino, but also because it is its own country with an interesting history.

It is easy to forget that Monaco is an independent country because France borders it on 3 sides (its fourth side bordered by the Mediterranean Sea) and French is its official language. Although Monaco is not formally part of the EU, there is no official border control when entering Monaco from France, and the euro is the sole currency.

The opening of its Monte Carlo Casino in 1863 made Monaco so wealthy that it no longer needed to charge income tax on its residents. To this day, Monaco continues to be a tax haven and a recreational destination for the wealthy, attracting visitors not only to its Casino but also to its annual Formula One race.

If monarchies fascinate you, you could make a stop at the Royal Palace to watch the daily changing of the guards. (I found it more amusing to watch the crowds watch the changing of the guards through their devices).

And, if you're like me and are amused by geography and borders, you can enjoy the fact that, depending on where you stand, you might be able to see 3 countries at once: Monaco, France and Italy. You can also get your passport stamped at the local tourist office!

6. Cannes

Cannes is famous for its International Film Festival and its "Promenade de la Croisette" seafront strip of posh hotels, restaurants and shops.

The Palais des Festivals et des Congrès was closed to the public during my visit, as they were setting up for an upcoming event, but I was able to enjoy a view of it from the long sandy beach. Fun fact: the sandy beach in Cannes is "artificial", in the sense that the city has had the sand brought over to enhance its appeal to visitors.

7. Antibes

Antibes is a chic town with a relaxed ambiance. As a Greek settlement, it was named "Antipolis", meaning "opposite city" because of its location across from Nice. It is known for its Port Vauban marina - the largest in Europe - which harbors both fishing boats and luxury yachts. You can walk the 16th century ramparts and admire the Alps from a distance. In Antibes, you have several choices of museums, notably the Musée Picasso. If the Sea and fresh air have stimulated your appetite, visit the Marché provençal market hall or enjoy a sorbet from one of the many ice cream shops in town. I really (really really) enjoyed my tropézienne sorbet, named after the traditional regional tart made with custard, butter cream, orange blossoms and sugar. Antibes also had lovely little shops to discover, and a charming English bookstore.

8. St Paul de Vence

An idyllic medieval village perched above sea level, St-Paul de Vence attracted many artists and writers in the 19th and 20th centuries who were looking for their muse, like Matisse, Chagall, Picasso, James Baldwin, Jacques Prévert and Yves Montand, to name a few. That artistic atmosphere is still alive and well today, as the town's narrow lanes are replete with contemporary art galleries and shops.

In the 14th century, St-Paul de Vence occupied a strategic position as a border city, and city walls were erected in the later half of the 14th century. Those ramparts and two of its original towers still stand today and, from them, you can enjoy sweeping views of the surrounding countryside.

Now that you've had a glimpse of these coastal cities and perched towns, which do you most feel like visiting? Can you guess which 4 places left me longing to return?
Leave a comment below and let me know!

Stay tuned for the unveiling of my new Côte d'Azur collection of fine-art prints, postcards and wall art. To get on the VIP list and get a sneak peek of the collection before it's launched, sign up here.

From my heart to yours!

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Take me back to Nice: Musings of my escapade on the Côte d'Azur

27/10/2019

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It's always just a matter of time until my restlessness makes me crave a suitcase, an airplane and a different timezone.

Sometimes, the travel bug is quite satiable by exploring new places close to home, like I did this summer.

But sometimes, you feel like stretching your legs a little more.

My favorite way of traveling is - like everything else I tend to do in life - based on feeling. What scenery am I daydreaming of? What would make my mind and body feel refreshed? Which culture is calling me? What kinds of photos do I want to share with you? (Don't underestimate the importance of the last question!)

This October, Nice had all the advantages for an easy, spontaneous getaway.

For one, I felt an aching longing for Europe, especially Europe in the fall, which was my favorite season when I lived there. Nice was also inviting because it felt so accessible -- a direct flight, one tram-ride away from the airport, lots of accommodation options. It also has my favorite type of "city formula", namely: seafront + port + old town + new town, and it makes a great hub for exploring nearby coastal towns and villages.

And, something that was particularly tempting: I had never been there. You know I love to return to places, but this time, I was in the mood for something new.

So I scurried to put my work aside and to block off a week to rest my head, fill up my senses and press pause on "summer palette" for a little while longer, before immersing myself into falling leaves.

Essentially, Nice called and I went running.

I immediately noticed how comfortable I was in Nice. It felt as though I had resumed my life in Italy. The architecture, Ligurian rhythm and Italian spoken all around me made me forget that I was in France for long moments at a time. Luckily, there were many fresh baguettes to remind me...

Nice owes its Italian similarities not only to her proximity to the Italian border but also to the fact that Nice went back and forth between belonging to "Italy" (or Savoy which became the Kingdom of Piedmont-Sardinia, which later became part of Italy) and belonging to France. In its complicated history, Nice was besieged and occupied several times by the French in the 17th and 18th centuries, and its ramparts and citadel were destroyed. In 1793, the French wanted to show that they were not annexing Nice against her will; a referendum was held and the people voted in favor of Nice belonging officially to France.

Back in Italian possession in the 19th century, Nice was ceded to France as a thank you for France's assistance in Italy's war against Austria. A second referendum then confirmed the decision. Soldier and politician Giuseppe Garibaldi, who was born in Nice, opposed the result and argued that the vote had been rigged by the French. At the time, many Italians left Nice and moved down the Ligurian coast, giving rise to the movement of Italian irredentists who campaigned for the reacquisition of their beloved Nissa la Bella.

The Niçard dialect has strong Italian influences and can still be seen on the street signs in Old Nice.

So, Nice belonged to both France and Italy. But what do the English have to do with all this, then?!

In the 18th century, the English aristocracy began spending their winters in Nice, lured by the gentler weather. Before the seafront promenade was built, the waterfront areas were home to dockworkers and fishermen, rather than to fancy hotels and residences as we know it today.

The "Camin dei Inglès" (Promenade des Anglais) walkway is said to have been proposed by the English as a useful urban project for beggars who came looking for shelter from the north during a particularly harsh winter. The wide waterfront promenade dotted with palm trees, beach umbrellas and blue chairs has now become the icon of Nice and its Baie des Anges.

Another symbol of Nice is the luxurious Hotel Negresco, opened in 1913 by Henri Negresco who wanted a sumptuous hotel to attract the wealthiest visitors to the French Riviera. The lavish rococo hotel with its iconic pink dome still maintains an elite bourgeois feel to it today. On the night of the Bastille Day attack on the Promenade in 2016, its famous main hall was used to triage wounded civilians, reminiscent of when the hotel was converted into a hospital during World War I.

My sea-loving heart was so happy in Nice. I began and ended each day with the Sea.
In the mornings, I would step out onto my AirBnB's balcony one block up from the Promenade, and try to peak between buildings to see what the Sea looked like, knowing full well that her color would change with every hour of the day. I would walk the pebbly beach after breakfast, taking long pauses between pictures to make sure I would remember the way the light and maritime air felt on my skin. I'd stop to notice the heavy scent of sea salt hanging in the air, and the deafening sound the tide made when it pulled out of the shore with millions of pebbles tumbling like coins in its grasp.

In the afternoon, I would plop myself down in front of the vast horizon, either on the shore or in one of the "chaises bleues", just watching, and being. A couple of times, I ventured into the water at high tide, amazed at how warm it still was in October.

In the evenings, the Sea would summon me again and accompany me on my stroll back to the apartment.

Just for the sea (but for many other reasons), I could have stayed in Nice.

Nice was also impressive for its many gorgeous squares and green spaces. I never felt rushed, squeezed, pushed or overwhelmed. The whole city had a soothing energy.

I can't say whether it feels like that for the locals, or at busier times of the year, but it definitely felt as though careful planning and restoration had paid off. Everything just made sense, from an urban planning perspective.

Place Masséna is a sort of converging point between Old Nice and the new town. Walking up from the Promenade, you are blessed with this charming view of Apollo and the four horses on his head.

The Sun Fountain and its 5 bronze status representing Mercury, Venus, Earth, Mars and Saturn is a magnificent sight, though not without its share of historical controversy (Long story short: Apollo was deemed "too well endowed" when he was revealed to the Niçois and, after being adjusted, chiseled, vandalized, exiled and replaced by a boring mound of dirt with 3 pathetic palm trees for several years, the public eventually begged the Mayor to bring back the giant fountain!)

Place Masséna also leads to the "zone piétonne" (pedestrian street), bustling with restaurants, stores, ice cream shops and inns for every taste.

You can stroll and sit for a long while in the calming "Promenade du Paillon" green space flanking Old Nice. If you look at a map, you'll notice it looks as sinuous as a river. That's because it was a river (the Paillon), which was covered in the 19th century. The river's terribly low water levels were unimpressive for residents, who mostly used the river to do their laundry. But the danger with the Paillon was that it could flood very quickly if there was a lot of rain in the hills behind Nice, and it did. The Miroir d'eau water jets and the nearby children's playground (featuring giant wood sea animals) were all designed to echo the underlying Paillon river.

And if you enjoy narrow lanes far more than wide open spaces, then simply venture into the maze of streets of the Vieille Ville and linger there for hours. I promise you there is no shortage of inspiration for your senses.

One of the aspects I miss most about living in Europe is the delight of market mornings. I would love buying not only produce and local foods from open-air markets, but also art, flowers and clothes. Especially in autumn and spring, I would love to find cozy sweaters and stylish boots, and to bring home art or antiques with a story to tell.

The daily Marché aux Fleurs in the Cours Saleya square is primarily a flower market, but there are also many produce, food and art vendors. Off the Promenade, the Cours Saleya is behind the Quai des Etats-Unis (where you can see a mini Statue of Liberty).

If you're a fish-lover like me, the fish market is located in Place St-François, an interesting part of the Old Town closer to Place Garibaldi. My Mom and I always say that I love the scent of fresh fish because she was unknowingly pregnant with me during her trip to southern Spain, where the smell of fish constantly made her nauseous. I like to think of traits that don't change, in a life where almost everything does!

At the heart of the Old Town, you come to the 17th century baroque Cathedral, Sainte-Réparate de Nice. Interestingly, its bell tower almost completely hides its gorgeous tiled cupola, so be sure to step back or climb up the hill to admire it in its entirely.

The Cathedral square, Place Rossetti, is also home to Nice's finest gelato shop Fenocchio, which is neither for the faint-hearted nor for the indecisive! Almost 100 flavors await your sampling. I recommend you visit once a day to try as many flavors as humanly possible! (Did I say once a day? I meant twice a day, at least). For the curious, my favorites were: meringue, fig, chocolate, nougat, cassis and almond.

I'm sorry to say that to walk off all of the ice cream and pizza, the Promenade just isn't gonna cut it. Instead, you should climb up the Colline du Château (Castle Hill), take in the sights up top (like the Jewish cemetery, castle ruins and various lookout points) then walk down to visit the Port, and THEN walk all the way back to the new town via the Promenade.

Then you can have more ice cream.

The Port of Nice is currently under construction (in 2019) to accommodate a new tram, but the area is still highly enjoyable and picturesque. I love to lose track of time in ports and marinas, watching the comings and goings of boats, and imagining which one I would own.

If you walk towards the Sea from the Port, you'll reach the Promenade, with the Monuments aux Morts, a tribute to citizens who lost their life in World War I.

Spending time in Nice in mid-October made me curious about how it changes and unwinds in the fall and winter. I am tempted to do as the English aristocrats did and trade my harsh winter for the gentle winter of Côte d'Azur! What do you think?

After all, one gets to know a place not only in its changing lights and tides, but its changing seasons.

I hope my photos and words have convinced you to visit (or revisit) this precious place!

Thank you, Nissa bella, for renewing my energy and spirit this fall. Our story's not done, I can tell.

To read about the coastal towns and medieval villages I visited on the Côte d'Azur during my stay in Nice, check out this blog post:

Stay tuned for the unveiling of the new Côte d'Azur collection of prints, postcards and wall art!

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Discovering the Saguenay Fjord: 5 best panoramic spots

17/10/2019

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Often, the most awe-inspiring places are right in your backyard.

Many of us travel far and wide before we set out to discover the gems that are right nearby. Lately, I have felt compelled to explore the beauty our province of Québec has to offer over the course of its four glorious seasons. You may have already read about my dreamy overnight stay in a historic lighthouse on a tiny island in the middle of the St-Lawrence river. Following those memorable days, I continued my trip inland along the Saguenay fjord, from Baie Sainte-Catherine, through the Saguenay Fjord National Park, to La Baie and Chicoutimi.

There is something about the region that is absolutely breathtaking, a vision that lingers in your mind's eye without fading until you return.

The deep waters are a mysterious mix of salt water and freshwater, their infinite ripples entrancing you in every light, as you watch the fog or rain or the millions of crystals dropped into the water by the Sun. The cliffs look a bit like whale backs, their silhouettes visible from a distance.

The horizons are expansive, painted in a nameless color mixing blues, grays and greens in random but perfect proportions. And you stand there, feeling tiny, your lungs filled with fresh air and hope.

If you're planning a trip to the Saguenay fjord, here are 5 spots I loved and wholeheartedly recommend.

1. La Baie (Saguenay)

La Baie is a borough of the city of Saguenay, the first colony in the Saguenay-Lac-St-Jean region. It is a beautifully scenic spot that is well worth the visit! The Saguenay river splits into a fork at this point, and La Baie is located on the "Baie des Ha! Ha!" (on the Ha! Ha! river). Fun fact: although the name might make you laugh aloud, it apparently either stems from the Algonquin "place where bark is exchanged" or from the French "unexpected obstacle on a path". Linguists always ruin all the fun!

2. La petite maison blanche

La petite maison blanche (The Little White House) is a symbol of resilience. An ordinary Chicoutimi home built in the 1900s, it survived two major floods caused by the overflowing of the nearby dam. The buildings around it were totally destroyed, but there it firmly stood, against all odds. Today, the Little White House has been converted into a museum commemorating the floods, and surrounding area has been transformed into a lovely park with waterfalls paying tribute to its past.

3. L'anse de la Tabatière

Anse de la Tabatière is close to Anse St-Jean and part of the SEPAQ Saguenay Fjord National Park. It boasts breathtaking panoramas over the fjord from several lookout points that are relatively easy to hike to once you leave your car in the parking area and enter the park (a small admission fee applies).

4. Le quai du Petit Saguenay

Here, in contrast to l'Anse de la Tabatière, you are almost at eye-level with the fjord, and you can't help but feel moved by its immensity and beauty. Every angle, every light, every color is inspiring, and you could probably stay here for hours. I know I could! If you can, time your visit with the sunset in the summer months to catch it setting on the water.

5. L'anse Saint-Etienne

The sandy beach at l'Anse Saint-Etienne was created by the natural emptying of a lake that was once located upstream from the village. The small town was completely razed after a serious fire in 1900, and it is said that, at low tide, remains of the old village can be seen. L'Anse Saint-Etienne attracts thousands of visitors every year because you can see beluga whales from its shore.

For more information on these sites, visit:
SEPAQ Parc National du Fjord-du-Saguenay
Saguenay Lac-St-Jean
Tourisme Saguenay

Have you been to the Saguenay region? What was your favorite part? Let me know in a comment. I always love to hear from you!

From my heart to yours.

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The magic of Brandy Pot Island

28/8/2019

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Version française

Imagine sleeping in a lighthouse on a tiny island where you feel like you are just a dot in the vast world. Imagine your ears being filled all day long with birdsong, wind and the sound of water spilling over mossy rocks. Imagine a day where your conception of time shifts to depend only on the sun and the tide, where the night sky is brighter and where your breaths are deeper than they have been in a long while.

On this little island in the middle of the St-Lawrence river in the Canadian province of Quebec, you'll be charmed by marine life and get a glimpse of what it was like to be a lighthouse keeper in the 19th century.

Across from Rivière-du-Loup, this enchanting archipelago is made up of three small islands: Le Gros Pot, Le Petit Pot and le Pot du Phare. Several other islands can be found nearby, like Hare Island (Ile aux Lièvres). The name for Brandy Pot island comes from sailors who thought the puddles of water pooled in pockets on the island's rocky shores looked like brandy.

Historically, the sailing conditions were challenging in this area of the St-Lawrence river; the currents were strong and the many small islands were difficult to see in the night and thick fog. Shipwrecks were far too common, so the construction of several lighthouses was commissioned. The Brandy Pot lighthouse was built in 1862 on the same rocky promontory where it proudly stands today. For 102 years, six keepers took turns enduring the harsh winters, strong winds and unpredictable weather. They committed their lives to the daily upkeep of the lighthouse, to shining its light through each long night, and guiding ships to safety. What an honor it must have been to be a lighthouse keeper, and what a privilege to have this grandiose view to call home.

The lighthouse fell into disrepair after it was abandoned in 1964, when its light was automated and later rendered obsolete by a modern steel lighthouse tower built a few meters away. But the island was still rich with marine birds and vegetation, which led a group of biologists to join efforts in its preservation. Together, these biologists founded the non-profit organization Société Duvetnor, which gradually acquired several islands in the lower St-Lawrence and invested in the conservation of these bird sanctuaries.

The aged Brandy Pot Lighthouse was renovated in 1989 according to its original architectural plans and fitted with a new lantern. What helped raise funds for its restoration was the Duvetnor organization's collection of down from the nests of the island's eider ducks each spring. The coveted down from these nests was exported to Europe where its value soared. To ensure the sustainability of these conservation efforts, the Government of Canada recently acquired the island from Duvetnor, though the non-profit organization continues to receive visitors in the three rooms of the historical lighthouse, as well as on the neighboring Hare Island (Ile aux Lièvres). Duvetnor's excursions and lodging serves their primary goal of wildlife conservation.

Aboard the small ferry crossing over to the archipelago from Rivière-du-Loup, both the height of the waves and my childish excitement had butterflies fluttering wildly in my stomach. Smiling widely, I gripped the metal bar in front of my seat and watched through the soaked windows as a red and white structure slowly grew into view. I have loved lighthouses for as long as I could remember, and here was my chance to stay in one overnight. Two other couples were aboard the boat - hiking shoes, cameras and wine in tow.

Before disembarking at the lighthouse, our guide Quentin gave us a tour of the archipelago, recounting historical facts to six faces who listened intently, punctuating some of his sentences with a shutter press to record these unique landscapes we felt so privileged to witness.

When we docked at the lighthouse island and climbed up the long, steep ramp towards solid ground, my mind did all the photographing. The sun was low in the sky and the lighthouse was towering over us, greeting us as it had greeted countless unknown sailors in the past. To our backs, the river, the coastline far beyond our view. Around us, layers of rocks and trees and purple wildflowers, swaying in the fierce wind as though waving us on. Above us, seagulls making their presence known, taking an opportunity to remind us that they are in command here.

Our gracious Duvetnor hosts welcomed us warmly and showed us to our cozy rooms, thoughtfully decorated in a way that grounded us in the history of the place. We were given a few minutes to get settled and then taken on a walking tour of the island's trails, which are accessible only after the nesting season ends in July.

The light was magical and we felt blessed to have a perfect view of the horizon, as it had been extremely foggy the day before. Our guide took us along the paths to different lookouts, pointing out the different vegetation and various mysteries of the island, like a cross planted in the middle of the forest.

My favorite lookout point was "La Chaloupe", which won my heart in that light and won it over again the next morning shortly after sunrise.

After our walk, we had free time to walk around, sit on the terrace or climb to the top of the lighthouse tower.

Soon, it came time for dinner to be served. We were spoiled with a four-course meal, each dish prepared with local ingredients and fresh garden herbs (in this case, their "garden" being a whole island!). Warm bread, a charcuterie & cheese board, ginger carrot soup, salmon on a bed of wild rice, and a homemade chocolate cake for dessert.

As we sat in the dining room, the sky put on a symphony of colors to remind us of how blessed we were, in case we had forgotten. We dined for hours, our cheeks cool from the fresh air, the spice of the meal lingering on our lips, our elbows propped on a table we shared with visitors from across the globe who were strangers just hours ago but now were topping up our glasses of wine as though we were old friends.

We bundled up in all our layers to brave the wind and stepped onto the terrace. Somewhere between the coffee and the last glass of wine, the island had become draped with the perfect night sky - a speckled dome that made us forget Instagram and work and all the pressures of past and future.

We fell asleep early, suddenly wiped by the excitement and all that our senses had experienced. I woke up in the middle of the night and smiled when I discovered that the electricity had been turned off (as it is solar-powered). I felt refreshed by the stillness of the night and of my mind.

I woke up to join the seagulls at 5am to welcome the sun. I have only caught a handful of sunrises in my life so far. As I'm not a morning person, witnessing sunsets is a much more realistic goal! But what a treat, a feast for the eyes and ears, as I stood there feeling totally undeserving of that miraculous view, watching as the seagulls loudly celebrated the promise of a brand new day.

Duvetnor must know that fresh air and early sunrises make you hungry! To remedy this, they serve not one but two breakfasts! A light breakfast of fruits and fresh croissants is served at 6am, followed by a more substantial breakfast with eggs and meats at 8am. In between, and afterwards, you're free to enjoy the paths or laze around the lighthouse. I took the opportunity to return to "La Chaloupe" again, where I sat on the rocks for a while and watched the birds go about their morning. I always love to return to the spots that inspire me to see how they change with the changing light and changing tides, and this little gem of a place was no exception.

When it came time to leave, to walk down that same ramp and say farewell to those views, I felt a pinch in my heart. I watched as the new set of six visitors disembarked, their faces looking around in awe as we had done. It was like coming out of a movie at the theater, wanting to exclaim, "It was so good!" but refraining so as not to spoil anything for them.

In fact, it may seem like I've shared a lot with you here, but I have been conscious not to spoil anything for you. The truth of the matter is, you must go and see - no, feel - this for yourself. Visit the Duvetnor website for all the information you need on Iles du Pot and Ile aux Lièvres. You can also follow them on Facebook or Instagram for updates.

If you do book a stay on these islands, here are 7 things you may want to pack:
- Your camera
- Your childish enthusiasm
- A battery pack (to charge your phone at night without electricity)
- Something to read
- Hiking shoes
- A windbreaker and/or hoodie
- Wine

I hope you enjoyed this virtual tour of a place that truly won my heart!

Have you been here or somewhere similar? Leave a comment! I would love to hear from you.

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Tips for traveling with a chronic illness like endometriosis

14/8/2019

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Since I was young, I have been restless, curious and drawn to certain places around the world without knowing why. Whenever the opportunity arose to travel and even live abroad for studies and work, I jumped at it with my heart thumping in my chest and a notebook (and camera) ready to record my observations and feelings.

It is difficult to pinpoint exactly when my "normal" life with endometriosis (then still undiagnosed) unraveled into symptoms that were too much to bear on a daily basis, let alone to carry with me on a trip. My nomadic lifestyle and, to a large degree, my sense of self, grappled with the reality that I could not travel freely with my condition, which needed treatment and management continuously on a physical, mental and emotional level.

Travel is a privilege and is good for the soul. But chronic conditions like endometriosis, multiple sclerosis, fibromyalgia, PCOS, Crohn's, or celiac disease (only to name a few) require lifestyle accommodations and mindset shifts on a daily basis, which can make travel feel daunting.

Here are my 5 tips for traveling with a chronic illness. These are the strategies I personally use as someone with debilitating endometriosis and associated conditions. Whether I travel with loved-ones who know about my condition or with acquaintances who have no idea, I prioritize these 5 practices to make sure that I am comfortable, peaceful and ready to feel inspired by my journey.

1. Have all the essentials

The basics cannot be underestimated!

Having travel health insurance and a flexible cancellation policy is important and definitely not a waste of money. Knowing that you are covered in case of unexpected circumstances can help reduce anxiety surrounding your health condition, making your trip far more enjoyable.

Make sure to have your pain / prescription medications filled for the duration of your stay. It could also help to have them in their original packaging or at least with the accompanying label that describes their generic pharmaceutical name and dosage, in case this information is required by a physician or pharmacist caring for you abroad.

Before you pack, make a checklist of everything you use at home to manage your symptoms and flare-ups. Be sure not to forget these essentials, whether it is your favorite loose clothing (hey there, #endobelly), your more reliable footwear, a hot water bottle or heat pack, lavender or other soothing essential oils, CBD, specific foods, bath salts, etc.

In short, do everything you can to feel at home when you travel.

2. Know yourself

If you're like me, chances are you've been called "hypersensitive" or something similar over the course of your medical (or even personal) history. Well, I've learned that the beauty of being so "hypersensitive" is being totally in tune with my body, its signals and its needs. Checking in with yourself regularly - not only when symptoms surface - is the best tool to keeping triggers at bay and fully enjoy your trip.

What foods or behaviors trigger flare-ups in your symptoms?
At what point in the calendar are you vulnerable or susceptible to pain or fatigue?
What are the non-negotiables in your daily or weekly self-care routine?

Know your rhythm, your triggers, your body's signals and your favorite strategies for taking a step back and prioritizing self-care.

There is nothing in the rulebook that says you cannot adopt all of your approaches while you travel!

3. Choose your surroundings carefully

There can be a lot of guilt associated with living with a chronic illness, but it's important to train ourselves not to feel guilty for tending to our physical, emotional and mental needs. Choosing an accommodation that will support our comfort is an important part of traveling happily.

If you feel you might need a private room, a bathroom or a bathtub, look for an accommodation with those criteria. If swimming or warm, sunny climates help ease your pain, choose destinations that will do you good! Look up the surroundings of your accommodation - know where the nearest pharmacy or supermarket is, for example.

While in transit, pace yourself. Give yourself enough time so you don't have to rush or strain. Finally, don't be shy to ask for assistance, whether it means getting a lift somewhere, or asking the airline staff for extra support.

4. Make time for recharging

Travel can be so exciting, invigorating and exhausting - it's easy to forget yourself and to neglect your downtime when you're on the go. If you're the type to follow an itinerary, then please schedule REST into your itinerary!

Seriously.

Guilt-free time to relax and recharge will make your travel experiences more positive and more memorable than if you take that time to cram in yet another destination or activity.

5. Practice forgiveness

If the way you are feeling "gets in the way" of something you had planned to see or do, please don't be hard on yourself. I know that feeling all too well. Truthfully, this is still something I struggle with personally. Forgive your body for slamming on the breaks. Go one extra step and thank it for doing so, because it means it is articulating its needs, and maybe - just maybe - you will discover something special in staying still.

Got a personal strategy to share? Please do! I'll see you in the comments!

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Money tips for traveling abroad

14/8/2019

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International travel is super exciting but also requires some preparation to ensure your experience is safe, hassle-free and inspiring.

An important aspect of "traveling smart" is to devote some thought to how you will manage your money while you're abroad.

These tips may seem like common sense, but sometimes we get carried away with everything we have to do before our trip, and our departure date sneaks up on us without having had the time to deal with money matters.

Here are 13 money tips for your peace of mind while you travel internationally.

1. Never change money at the airport

If you have to change money at an airport, it likely means you're rushed, unprepared and desperate. And those are precisely the ingredients that cook up the exorbitant rates that airport exchange offices will "offer" you!

2. Know the exchange rate in advance

To understand how far your money will go and how much things actually cost, it helps to familiarize yourself with the local currency in advance. You can also download a quick currency converter app. Look up the exchange rate before you change your money so you know what to expect in return and know to feel alarmed by hidden commissions, transaction fees or wrong calculations. Stress, numbers, jet-leg, crowds and a foreign language can lead you to feel flustered and inattentive, so better to be as prepared as you can be.

3. Don't store all your cash in one place

If you are forced to travel with a decent amount of cash, certainly don't carry it all in one place... and certainly not in your back pocket. This would easily be a pickpocket's dream and your nightmare! If traveling with someone, split the money up between you. If you have a secure place to leave it that is not ON you, that is a safer bet. If you have no choice but to carry it on you, be sure to hide it in different secure areas of your backpack, purse and/or on your person, so that it is not vulnerable to loss or theft in one shot. Some nifty items have been invented over the years to hide banknotes, so you can be creative as well as strategic!

4. Have enough cash for your first few days (and emergencies)

Even if your trip is the spontaneous, "go with the flow" kind, be sure to have enough cash on you for your first few days abroad, as well as for emergencies. Research where you can get extra money in advance, but plan for the unexpected.

5. Ask for small denominations

When you exchange your money, ask for smaller denominations as a general rule. If you have a few large denominations, break them in reputable places where you are not in a rush or surrounded by a crowd (and be mindful of the change you get back). Smaller banknotes are also a good idea to stash in a safe place in case of emergencies.

6. Carry more than one bank card

Even if you foresee paying cash almost everywhere you go, it's a good idea to have more than one bank card on you, in case one gets demagnetized, lost, stolen, frozen by your bank or swallowed up by an unfriendly ATM machine.

7. Keep your bank cards separate (and know how to report them lost)

Carry your bank cards separately to avoid losing them in one fell swoop if your wallet is lost or stolen. In case you don't have data or internet access, make sure you have the phone numbers of where to report your card lost or stolen, and that you have the information required by your bank to identify yourself and your account.

8. Know your cards' usage fees

Your bank probably charges a fee to withdraw from foreign ATMs. It's a good idea to know any special fees that may be incurred on your account before you travel. If you use your credit card to withdraw cash, note that it will charge you a cash advance fee as well as interest on the amount immediately, until you pay your card's balance in full.

9. Notify your bank before you travel

Notifying your bank / credit card company of your travel prior to your departure is a good idea to avoid their fraud department freezing your card as a precaution when they see frequent or large transactions being made abroad. Notify them of your dates and destinations so they know the irregular activity is not fraudulent.

10. Choose a secure ATM for your withdrawals

If you're planning on withdrawing cash abroad, be smart about when, where and how you do it. Choose an ATM that is not in a sketchy or poorly-lit location. Make sure to be discrete and strategic when divvying up the money you withdraw into your different "stash" areas, and opt for making the withdrawal on your way back to your accommodation rather than on your way out for the day, so that you are not carrying a ton of cash everywhere you go.

11. Familiarize yourself with the currency

Knowing what the country's banknotes and coins look like will facilitate your life when you're abroad, whether you're about to pay for something in a line-up or whether you want to double-check what you received as change. When money looks foreign to you, it is surprisingly easy to confuse similar-looking banknotes.

12. Check your statements online

Using a secure internet connection (i.e., not the free public WiFi), make a point to periodically check your bank statements online. Create an entry in your calendar to remind yourself when your credit card is due, and take that opportunity to make sure there are no suspicious transactions on your account. Before notifying your bank of what you think might be a fraudulent transaction, take an extra moment to make sure it really was not something you purchased yourself - sometimes establishments come up under a different legal name on your statement.

13. Use as much change as you can

It's tempting to always pay with banknotes for the sake of ease and simplicity, especially to avoid counting coins when we're in a rush or in a crowded place. Unfortunately, that might mean you'll end up with a ton of coins that will have no value to you when you return home, because currency exchange places and banks rarely accept coins in return. One strategy would be to count your coins before you leave your accommodation and to organize them so you can easily pay for your coffee or fruit with a chunk of pre-counted change.

Was this helpful? Got another money tip to share? Leave a comment below.
I always love to hear from you!

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14 places in Puglia you must not miss

29/7/2019

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Yearning for a trip to Italy soon?

You may be looking at awe-inspiring destinations like the Italian Riviera, the Amalfi coast or Tuscany, but have you considered a trip to Italy's idyllic heel instead?

In the southern region of Puglia and its Salento peninsula, your senses will be overwhelmed and delighted with sweeping coastlines, stunning beaches, labyrinthian old towns, savory local delicacies and memorable wines. You'll ease into a whole other rhythm of Italian life (forget the bustle of Milano and Rome!) and, if you do it right, you'll discover gems that many Italians have yet to explore.

Italy's heel has a longer coastline than other regions of Italy's mainland, and is bordered by both the Adriatic Sea and the Ionian Sea. Sure, Puglia is home to well-known destinations like its capital Bari, the baroque city of Lecce nicknamed 'Florence of the South' and to the iconic town of Alberobello known for its conical trulli houses. But what makes the region unforgettable is all the places, treasures and feelings in between... and I am here to tell you about them!

In its whitewashed towns and enchanting countryside dotted with millions of olive trees, I promise you will be tempted to stay... or, at the very least, to make plans (almost immediately) to return.

Here are 14 spots that should be on your itinerary if visiting Puglia, Italy.

1. Bari

Bari is the capital of the southern region of Puglia and is served by one of two international airports in the region (the other being Brindisi). The Gargano promontory (the "spur" of the boot), its rocky coastline and sprawling national park lies to the north of Bari, as does the picturesque town of Trani.

Bari itself is captivating and quite underrated compared to other Italian cities.

A port city with two harbors, it is a hub for many passenger ferries to Croatia, Greece, Albania or Montenegro. It is also a vibrant university town with a modern center boasting elegant shopping streets and museums. But what is most evocative about Bari is surely its authentic old town and this stark contrast between old and new. Strolling the maze of narrow cobbled lanes, you'll stumble upon one picturesque piazza after another and architectural marvels like the Basilica of S. Nicola, the Cattedrale di S. Sabino and its imposing steeple, the Teatro Petruzzelli and the impossible-to-miss Castello. But you'll also stumble upon several generations of locals making orecchiette pasta by hand in the street in front of their homes, their front door wide open and their children playing nearby. You'll find yourself inadvertently interrupting soccer games in the streets and squares, or conversations between neighbors shouting across balconies overhead. You'll order an espresso and find yourself watching the card game at the neighboring table, wondering whether your grandfather would be friends with these gentlemen if he lived here.

If you travel to Bari, please enjoy my 3 highlights for me: (1) Take a sunset walk and have a drink on the city's medieval ramparts, (2) spend some time in Piazza Mercantile (look up to take it all in), and (3) watch the fishermen at work at Porto Vecchio and along the Lungomare waterfront promenade.

2. Polignano a Mare

I dare you to go to Polignano and tell me upon your return that this place did not tug on your heart. (Challenge accepted?)

Polignano is only about 30 minutes from Bari and easily reachable by train.

Polignano is the perfect setting for slow wandering and sea-gazing. Perched atop limestone cliffs overlooking deep blue waters, Polignano has several beautiful lookout points that will make your heart pound. Certainly don't miss the Balconata sul Mare. The town has a Greek feeling to its architecture and color palette. Take time to find the charming Vicolo della Poesia with a staircase featuring poetry by Bari writer "Guido Il Flâneur". In fact, if you are attentive to your surroundings, you'll find bits of his poetry on doors and walls throughout the old town.

The beach itself (Cala Porto) is small and pebbly, but picturesque. Float on your back and watch the light change on the stone cliffs and its stacked houses. You can rent a bike from Polignano Made in Love and cycle to other nearby beaches and cute towns like San Vito.

And, if you really want to make a memory, go for lunch (or a more formal supper) at the Grotta Palazzese - a restaurant tucked in a cave where you have water spilling in on both sides of its terrace. Quick tip: Be sure to dress adequately (no swimsuits) and warmly, as it can be cool and clammy in the cave, especially after you've been in the hot sun. Also be prepared to spend a LOT for the same "simple" (though extremely fresh) food and wine you've been inexpensively savoring all over Puglia.

3. Monopoli

Continuing further down the Adriatic coast, Monopoli is basically teleport distance from Polignano, not even 15 minutes away by train!

If you love charming fishing towns and rugged beaches, spending time in Monopoli will do you good! In the morning and evening, enjoy the harbor, the small red lighthouse, the winding streets and the medieval walls surrounding the city. In the afternoon, grab your car or bike to explore nearby beaches, some of them more rugged than others: Cala Porta Vecchia, Cala Cozze, Porto Verde, Cala Paradiso, La Scaletta, Tre Buchi or Porto Marzano.

Remember that public beaches allow you to plop down your towel and umbrella freely on the sand or cliffs, whereas private beaches ("lido") will ask you to rent a spot for the day.

4. Ostuni

Ostuni is nicknamed "The White City" and is incredibly gorgeous both from afar and within its winding, inclined streets. Stacked upon a hilltop, Ostuni keeps a watchful eye over the Adriatic and the vast olive groves below. If you love narrow alleyways, dead-ends that open up onto secret courtyards and secret gardens, pretty doors and windows, and whitewashed houses that look even paler against the blue of the Sun and Sea, then Ostuni will undoubtedly enchant you. Climb to the top to see the Duomo or head to the lookout on Corso Vittorio Emanuele II for panoramic views of the city.

Ostuni would be a great choice as a base for a few days so that you can explore the surrounding towns, the masserie farms and the stunning beaches closeby.

Staying the night in a masseria and booking a supper there will allow you to connect more deeply with the land, the traditions and the passionate people who are so beautifully committed to preserving and promoting nature and this culture.

5. Alberobello

A UNESCO world heritage site, it would be difficult to complete a Puglia itinerary without a stop in Alberobello. While these cone-shaped limestone "trulli" buildings are scattered throughout the region, the dense cluster of them in Alberobello is what brings visitors to this town. Today, the trulli have been converted into restaurants, souvenir shops and even accommodations. That's right - you can stay in a trullo overnight if that's something on your bucket list!

Alberobello can feel overwhelmingly touristy, but it is worth seeing as it is quite unique. If you want to step away from the touristic center, explore the Rione Aia Piccola area. From there, you could also enjoy views over Alberobello.

6. Locorotondo

If you visited Polignano and Ostuni first, you may have given either of them the title of "prettiest town in Puglia". And then you come to Locorotondo, and suddenly you're tempted to reassign the title!

Quiet and slow, Locorotondo is the perfect place to spend a few hours taking a mindful stroll, taking in the vista of the surrounding countryside, and savoring an outdoor lunch with a glass of their renowned sparking white wine at one of the welcoming trattorie in the old town.

7. Martina Franca

Larger and busier than its neighboring villages, Martina Franca is another town in the Valle d'Itria that is definitely worth your time. Surrounded by fortifications and several preserved Renaissance and Baroque gates, Martina Franca's elegant architecture, pretty streets and wide squares will inspire you.

Look up, look around and look back to take in all the beautiful balconies, archways and shutters. Watch and listen to locals as they go about their day. Let your eyes flit over the symphony of Baroque details of the Basilica di S. Martino and the Chiesa di San Domenico.

Every summer, Martina Franca hosts the Festival della Valle d'Itria opera festival.

8. Lecce

No trip to Puglia is complete without visiting its "big city". Despite its size and elegance, Lecce is laid-back and low-key, perfect for exploring and experiencing at a relaxed pace. Strolling its golden streets, you'll notice that they are plenty of sights to take in, plenty of ornate baroque details to swoon over. You'll encounter several blasts from the past with roman ruins, columns, noteworthy museums and gorgeous city gates around Lecce's old town. Outside the old town's cobblestone lanes, you can unwind in one of the city's spacious parks. There is no shortage of interesting places to eat and drink in Lecce - stay tuned on the blog for a local's recommendations!

If you have time to spare and love authentic experiences, book a day course at The Awaiting Table culinary school. You'll learn hands on how to make orecchiette and several traditional dishes. While you cook and eat, you'll taste regional wine and learn about their intricate personalities. Your senses will thank you!

If you're worried that Lecce is too far inland, do not fret, as the beautiful beaches of San Foca, Torre dell'Orso (with its "due sorelle") and Torre Sant'Andrea are just over a half hour away. At peak season, be prepared for crowds (especially at Torre dell'Orso) and for a sea of "lido" properties offering umbrella and chair rentals, leaving only small patches of "free beach". Still, the rocky scenery and turquoise waters are worth the visit!

9. Otranto

It is easy to fall in love with Otranto and want to extend your stay. The large waterfront piazza is a beautiful place to start and end your day. The main city beach is not far to the left of it, but there is also a wonderful place to swim and sunbathe (if you don't mind putting your towel down on rocks or concrete instead of sand) closer to the port. The irregular-shaped Castello and its moat are worth visiting, and provide stunning views over old seafront town. The Cathedral (Santa Maria Annunziata) is famous for its "Tree of Life" mosaic floor, and the Chiesa di San Pietro is a gorgeous little church with Byzantine frescoes. Climb up for breathtaking views of the sunset before you head for supper. After dark, Otranto comes alive with families strolling the promenade until late.

A highlight of my Salento trip was the nearby beach "Baia dei Turchi", which I still dream of on long winter days.

10. Santa Cesarea Terme

Santa Cesarea is not only a beautiful coastal town but most notably home to large thermal baths with healing waters stemming from four grottoes and drawing visitors from all over Italy and beyond.

11. Santa Maria di Leuca

If you love the idea of standing on the southeastern most tip of Italy, where the waters of two seas meet and mingle (Adriatic and Ionian), then a trip down to Santa Maria di Leuca is necessary!

The iconic lighthouse stands next to the Basilica that was built on the site of a Roman temple.

Driving down the coast (from Lecce or Otranto) to Santa Maria di Leuca gives you the opportunity to stop in picturesque places like Castro, Porto Tricase or Porto Ciolo. On the Ionian coast, don't miss the crystal clear waters of Spiaggia di Pescoluse.

12. Gallipoli

The name "Gallipoli" originates from the Greek "Kallipolis" for "beautiful city". And, as you will undoubtedly notice immediately upon arrival, the city certainly lives up to its name!

Gallipoli is a perfect base for exploring the western coast of Italy's heel. The city center is atmospheric and authentic, large enough so you can wander quite a while through its narrow streets or along its seafront perimeter. Brace yourself for ferocious winds! Visit the Castle and head to the nearby fresh fish market for scents and tastes that will linger with you long after you've left.

Its city beach is beautiful and clean, with a gentle curve that makes you feel as though you've stepped right up to the threshold of a painting hanging framed in front of you. Return at sunset to fall in love with the sky and the tide.

Gallipoli is also close to other awe-inspiring beaches along the coast, such as Baia Verde or Punta della Suina with its dunes and wild greenery.

13. Porto Cesareo & Torre Lapillo

West of Lecce, on the Ionian side between Taranto and Gallipoli is a paradise called Porto Cesareo. I hope you're a fan of loose itineraries that leave room for unexpected changes, because the beach may hold you hostage. We extended our stay in Porto Cesareo (as we had also done in Polignano and Otranto) and were put up by a sweet local couple because all the b&bs were already booked for the night!

The long, sandy, shallow beaches with their dunes, islets and reefs are a marine protected area. Head north to Torre Lapillo, a favorite among locals. For more secluded stretches of beach (especially early in the mornings) visit Punta Prosciutto.

Directly across from Porto Cesareo, you'll find a tiny island called Isola dei Conigli (rabbit island). You can take a boat trip there and explore the island's cypress, pine and acacia trees. There is also a public beach on the island.

14. Porto Selvaggio

Just south of Porto Cesareo lies the National park of Porto Selvaggio, a jagged stretch of coastline between three towers (Torre dell'Alto, Torre Uluzzo and Torre Inserraglio) and a beach nestled in a rocky cove. The contrast between the vivid green cliffs and deep blue sea is a feast for the eyes. If traveling there by car, you park on the road and walk the rest of the way, through the dense forest. The protected area is home to many wild animals, different species of birds and varieties of trees. Underwater and exposed caves are of archaeological and paleontological importance due to the remains that have been uncovered. If you love nature, plan a daytrip to this stunning area.

Have you been to Puglia? Is it on your bucket list? Leave a comment and let me know what you think of this list!

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8 travel tips for a memorable vacation

29/7/2019

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So you've planned your next trip and chosen a destination that calls to you!

Here are 8 quick travel tips to make it a smooth and enjoyable trip that you'll remember long after you return home.

1. Be patient

Often, the best discoveries are those made when you least expect it (certainly not while you're rushing or stressed).

2. Buy tickets in advance for major attractions

It's such a great feeling to skip a massive line!

3. Take a metal water bottle with you

Staying hydrated is important, and a reusable bottle avoids plastic waste. Just don't fill it up until you're past security at their airport to avoid delays or them confiscating it!

4. Go food shopping

You'll learn more about local life if you shop and prepare your food rather than always eating out. You'll save some money too!

5. Have a copy of your passport and important cards on you

If you should ever lose your documents, having a copy can speed up replacing them, especially since we tend not to know our card numbers or other info by heart.

6. Vary your shoes

In case one pair gives your feet a hard time. Painful feet can be a real nuisance when traveling. Love your feet because they take you places!

7. Don't forget your battery pack

If your battery dies and you don't have access to a charger on the go, these inexpensive packs can save you and get you to the end of your day.

8. Be respectful of your surroundings

Remember that a place is not your personal playground. Respect the locals, nature, architecture, language, culture and any rules of the place you're visiting.

Got a tip to share too? Leave a comment below!

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11 places not to miss in Nova Scotia

27/9/2018

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As you may know from following me here and on Instagram, I traveled to Nova Scotia, Canada for the first time this summer. I loved the experience and felt totally rejuvenated by the fresh air, scrumptious seafood, warm people and breathtaking landscapes. I launched my Nova Scotia collection upon my return and it has already made its way into many of your homes!

If you are planning a trip to Maritime Canada and need some helpful advice on what to see, here are 11 stops I recommend adding to your itinerary.

Halifax Harbour

This one seems rather obvious, but walking the Halifax harbour end-to-end was one of the highlights of my trip. Eating on-site at one of the food shacks (fresh lobster rolls and other casual foods) is quite fun . If you enjoy handcrafted ales, I recommend the Gahan House Harbourfront brewery or the Stubborn Goat Beer Garden where you could sit outside and take in the beautiful view!

The Bay of Fundy coastline from Blomidon to Digby

The hilly drive toward Blomidon Provincial Park offers stunning views which make you feel tiny. At low tide, it all looks even more mystical, and I am fairly sure you will find yourself in awe of the scenery. Driving along the coast to Digby takes about two hours. You can reward yourself with the infamous Digby scallops upon arrival.

Halls Harbour

Once in a while, you stumble upon a small but significant place that just steals your heart. Halls Harbour is special and quite possibly underrated compared to places such as Peggy's Cove. The windy and rainy weather set the mood for our visit. The more we tried to approach the ocean, stumbling on the rocks and pebbles that filled the shore at low tide, the more we felt like we were on another planet. A quaint fishing village, the harbour is lovely to walk around. Then, you reach the main waterfront restaurant, the Halls Harbour Lobster Pound, where you could choose your own lobster and (unless you get attached to him) take him to the cookhouse.

Vineyards of the Annapolis Valley

If you're a wine lover, you'll LOVE the Annapolis valley. The valley is located between two mountain ranges and one of the first areas to grow and cultivate grapes in North America. You can get a passport booklet called "The Nova Scotia Good Cheer Trail" which gives you a list of all the wineries and brewing companies, and allows you to collect stamps to win prizes in return. I loved the service we received at the Planters' Ridge Winery and the gorgeous views at the Luckett Vineyards. On my bucket list for next time: a hot air balloon ride over the valley which ends in a wine-tasting event. Yes, please.

Fisherman's Cove

What a lovely family-friendly place to spend a few hours. It's so peaceful to walk the shore and beachcomb during low-tide, visit the local shops filled with art and other mementos, and grab a fresh lunch. For a casual but delicious bite, try What's the Scoop takeout.

Rainbow Haven Beach

Only a ten-minute drive from Fisherman's Cove is Rainbow Haven Beach Provincial Park (Cole Harbour), a long, sandy beach (with some pebbles) with a long boardwalk over sand dunes.

Lawrencetown Beach

Lawrencetown Beach is about a half-hour away from Fisherman's Cove and Halifax. A surfer's beach with strong waves and currents, it's a beautiful place to take in the dramatic scenery. The beach is composed both of sand and large pebbles.

Peggy's Cove

World-famous Peggy's Cove! And, once you see it, you'll understand why. This place somehow pulls on the heartstrings.

Try to avoid crowds by getting an early start, and take your time walking around the harbour and around the lighthouse. It's worth exploring different vantage points and just feeling like a small dot against a vast ocean. The town has done a great job at putting up signs that explain the history of the place and how the houses have been built. We ate a delicious hot dog from "Peggy's Dogs", an awesome stand run by Claire who also owns an inn in Peggy's Cove.

Mahone Bay and Lunenburg

Mahone Bay was lovely and larger than expected, with wonderful shops (art, home decor, antiques, jewelry) to discover. From there, colorful Lunenburg is only a fifteen-minute drive away. A UNESCO World Heritage Site, Lunenburg charmed us with its architecture, shop-filled streets, bustling waterfront and, of course, the Bluenose II (a replica of the iconic racing boat you see on our Canadian dime).

The waterfront is a mix of old and new, with modern eateries sharing the space with the Museum of the Atlantic and an old warehouse.

If you love oysters, don't miss out on the mouth-watering food (and wine) at the Half Shell Oyster Bar. The view isn't half bad, either!

Martinique Beach

Martinique Beach Provincial Park has a vast (5km) white beach. It is the longest sandy beach in Nova Scotia. It tends to be colder and windier there because of its open area, so pack accordingly! It's a lovely place to fly a kite or have a picnic.

Cape Breton Island

Cape Breton Island deserves a post of its own, as there are so many points of interest, especially if you enjoy hiking. You may know there is a whole discussion about whether to drive the Cabot Trail clockwise or counterclockwise. Truthfully, it's not the end of the world if you do it clockwise (even though you'll be on the opposite side of the road from the sweeping views), because there are so many easily accessible lookout points to pull off into along the dramatic coastline.

Personal highlights on the west coast of the Cabot Trail included Inverness, Chéticamp, the Highlands, Cap-Rouge, the Skytrail (hold onto your hat!) and Pleasant Bay. I can't wait to return to explore the East Coast! Cape Breton is a place you'll be making plans to return to before even having left.

Have you been to Nova Scotia? What are some of your favorite places?
Leave a comment, I would love to know!

From my heart to yours.

Kindly credit Veni Etiam Photography if reposting these photographs

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Italy in the heart

26/2/2018

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A couple of weeks ago, I revealed my new collaboration with the Smitten Italy & Co shop and introduced you to Heather Carlson, a fellow Italophile who became my pal on Instagram. In case you missed it, Heather interviewed me about my love for Italy on her Merry Feast Travels blog.

For the second part of our Smitten Italy series, I interviewed Heather on her love for Italy and her advice to novice Italy-travelers.

"When we moved back to America from Italy in 2015, we longed for some fun splashes of Italy in our lives. We couldn't transport our neighborhood church bells, the ancient cobblestones or our favorite pizzeria - so we started creating typography designs for our family and friends that have naturally morphed into this little shop", Heather explains.

"It’s based on our love of Italy and is for everyone who is #smittenwithitaly.

The shop officially launched in early 2017 with a small line of clothing for adults & kids. Now the shop has expanded with tote bags, mugs, art prints & digital art. We are thrilled to be adding our first collaboration with Veni Etiam Photography in 2018."

Heather describes how she fell head over heels with not only "vacation Italy" but also Italy's daily, authentic side that she discovered over time.

"The first time it was all the typically romantic things. The street musicians, the architecture and art. Each time I returned, I learned more and appreciated additional things like the language, the people, the light, the history, and always the food. Food is so different from region to region and also from village to village. It blows my mind
how many wonderful and unique things there are to eat in Italy that many people have never heard of!"

Read Heather's Ultimate Bucket list for Food Lovers

"While living there, I saw a completely different side to Italy - crazy and frustrating yet continuously beautiful. And while I still love “vacation Italy,” living there really enriched my love and passion for the people and the country."

Photo courtesy of Merry Feast Travels

Is there a part of Italy you feel is underrated?

"Definitely Milan. While living there for several years, I really grew to love it. And I always love returning and continue to discover new things each time. It’s an amazing spot to base yourself, just a short train ride away from many wonderful destinations like the Lake district, Parma, Modena, Bologna, the Dolomites, Torino..."

Read Heather's articles about Milan and daytrips to nearby towns

What's a place you'd return to, again and again?

"Rome and Umbria," it seems Heather couldn't pick just one!

"I love them both so much and instantly feel at home whenever I return. I now lead food and wine tours in Umbria with my Italian partner who owns a cooking school and Agriturismo near Assisi. I love helping food-loving travelers plan their own delicious Italy adventures."

Photo courtesy of Merry Feast Travels

Plan a culinary tour with Heather

What advice would you give to an "Italy beginner" when helping them plan their travels?

Heather offered 3 tips for first-time Italy travelers:

1. Slow Down. Less is more for your daily schedule and in your itinerary. Allow breathing time to really sink into a place and experience it. Don’t dash from one site to another, or one city to another. Try to imagine that you will be coming back and don’t try to pack everything in to one trip.

2. Make Dinner Reservations. Book your first night’s dinner reservations before
arriving. I started doing this early on in my travels and have never regretted it
(especially when traveling with my kids) I love the thrill of the hunt of a good place to
eat, but get very grumpy if there is no plan and everyone is tired and hungry from a
long day of travel. Having a plan before we arrive takes the pressure off, and helps us
enjoy easing into our new location.

3. Eat dinner late with the locals. After your first night, adjust your dining times. Italians eat late compared to what we are used to in America. We struggled with that our first trip to Italy, and learned quickly that if you make a reservation for 7:30 when many restaurants open for dinner, you will be the only person there! What fun is that? To truly experience a bustling trattoria, adjust your time. By showing up at 8:30-9 (or later) you will soon be surrounded by the locals, enjoying your delicious homemade tagliatelle complete with delicious Italian ambiance!

Do YOU have an Italy travel tip to share? Leave a comment below. Heather and I would love to hear from you.

Visit the Smitten Italy shop for lots of fun Italy-related gift items, clothes and of course the Veni Etiam collection of Italy prints!

To learn more from Heather, be sure to follow Merry Feast and Smitten Italy over on Instagram. She's always adding new goodies to the blog and the shop!

From my heart to yours.

Seven magical packing tips

17/3/2017

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I LOVE to pack. I confess.

It's such a fun feeling to be preparing to leave on a trip. The best part is when all the errands are done, the laundry is done, and the empty suitcase is sitting on the bed next to the packing list while music is blaring.

Like anything else in life, packing skills improve with practice, patience and experience.

Here are 7 packing strategies that I have honed over the years.

1. Invest in a lightweight suitcase

I love hardshell suitcases, but they tend to be heavy even when empty. Softshell suitcases made from lightweight materials not only help keep the weight down, but they are also more malleable and flexible while packing, and there are no parts that could crack in transport.

2. Scrutinize your selection

Have your clothes and accessories audition for you before they make the final cut! This seems like a trivial tip, but even as a seasoned packer, I find this bit of “telling the future” hard to do, especially when I am travelling to multiple destinations with different climates or for different occasions. I usually lay my initial selection out on the bed and then cut dramatically through a careful thought-process.

Think in terms of the contexts in which you’ll use what you’re packing. If you have the mildest doubt, eliminate it. Plan outfits – not one for every day or even twice a day, but think instead in terms of mixable and interchangeable combinations and layers. Plan to handwash just a few items if you won’t have access to laundry facilities (in fact: you could pack a travel clothesline, which is super convenient!) Opt for versatile footwear over multiple pairs.

Cut down heavily on the toiletries; if you end up needing something, chances are you will be able to get it there, or you may be able to live without it! Also, keep toiletries travel-sized even if you are checking your bag in.

3. Maximize your space

Don’t fold your clothes as you would in your closet or drawers – lay them flat or roll them. To avoid creases in cotton or more finicky fabrics, roll the item in tissue paper. Be sure to make use of the corners and in-between spaces of your luggage, as well as spaces in purses, boots or shoes. Items like belts can be snaked around the inside perimeter of your suitcase. Store flat items in the zippered pockets and mesh divider of your suitcase. If you’re travelling with gifts, pre-wrapping them will cause you to lose space. You could slip them in a gift bag once you arrive, or take them in your carry-on. To save space in your luggage, wear bulker items (like a hoodie or jacket) while you travel.

Photo source: thinkstockphotos.com

4. Squeeze the air out!

Use Ziploc bags or packing cubes to organize your clothes into batches and compress them as much as possible. This strategy also allows you to keep your clothes clean and dry. It can be annoying to repeat this process every time you take something from your suitcase while travelling, so be sure to thoughtfully group what you will need first, and keep those items near the top of your suitcase.

5. Ward off stains and spills

Pack your liquids in Ziploc bags to prevent leaks. Be sure to carry extra Ziploc bags of various sizes and a garbage bag in case the need arises. Before closing your suitcase, layer the top with a plastic bag or a clean garment bag, to give your stuff an extra layer of protection.

6. Keep all your electronic gadgets in one place

Keep all your gadgets in a Ziploc bag or pouch so that you're not digging around in your suitcase for a charger, adapter, extra SD card or whatever else! I used to stick chargers in the corners and bare spaces of my luggage but stopped doing that because I would never remember which corner I shoved them into. Having everything in one pouch or Ziploc bag is very helpful, but consider keeping it in your carry-on in the (not rare enough) case that the airline loses your luggage.

7. Keep it fresh

Pack a lavender sachet or fabric softener sheets and you'll be pleasantly surprised at how freshly scented your suitcase and its contents will remain during your trip.

Photo source: Fleeing France blog

8. Don't forget the duct tape

You'll never know when you might need it. I have, more than once, bought a ridiculously pricey roll of duct tape in foreign currencies in order to salvage (most often) a broken suitcase. Duct tape may be a bit bulky, but it's definitely handy. Add it to your packing list!

I hope you find these tips helpful!

Leave a comment and tell me a tip of your own that I missed. I'd love to know!

From my heart to yours.

My 5 favorite travel destinations

31/1/2017

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Ship's Mast | Veni Etiam Photography

There is nothing more thrilling for my restless soul than to discover a new place as often as life will allow it. There were years where I traveled to several new cities each month; admittedly, it's way easier to have that kind of travel rhythm when you live in Europe. There were other years where my scientific schedule allowed me to fly overseas three or four times in a given year. Although I was not escaping my daily life by any means, I became addicted to the feeling of collecting places in my passport, my photos and my life story.

Wanderlust is at once insatiable as it is exhausting. It's also deeply ingrained and quite possibly genetic, or at the very least highly contagious. I have welcomed "quieter years" with open arms, and I have learned to explore my own daily surroundings with the same sense of discovery and joy without the limited wardrobe, Ziploc bags, foreign currency and nauseating waves of jet-lag. But even during quieter times, I try to see at least ONE new place a year. If a conference or friendly visit is on the agenda, I try to combine it with someplace I have not yet been.

In choosing a travel destination, there are 5 types of places I am intrinsically lured to.

1. Port cities

Aside from the fact that Montreal itself is a port city, one of the earliest experiences that shaped my love for port towns was my time in Ancona on Italy's Adriatic coast. I love the raw, rough, busy feel of port cities - that characteristic curve of harbourfront roads, colorful cranes and containers stacked high against the backdrop of water, and the way a port looks from above, with the sea spilling into the urban space and large ships making smaller boats and buildings look tiny in comparison. Aside from Ancona and Venice which have their own special status with me, port cities that hold a key place in my heart are Bari, Barcelona, Lisboa, Corfu, Amsterdam and Copenhagen.

A hilltop view of Ancona's port

Porto di Ancona

Amsterdam in sepia

Port City | Montreal | Fine-art print, wood, canvas, acrylic or metal

Dubrovnik

Bari Perfetta | Veni Etiam Photography | Fine-art print, wood, canvas, acrylic or metal

2. Rustic old towns

I love old towns. I love their façades -- with beautiful textures, colors and architectural details - their narrow lanes, their broken steps and missing cobblestones, their churchbells, their market days, the sounds of someone sweeping their doorstep or opening their rustic shutters, the sounds of cutlery clinking at dusk. I love the way that residents' voices echo between balconies or rise up from the street to the windows - that same way that tourists' suitcase-wheels disrupt the gentle morning silence. The smaller the town, the more I get turned around, but I have learned to love that too.

Barcelona

Old Bari

Polignano al Mare

Kerkyra | Veni Etiam Photography | Fine-art print, wood, canvas, acrylic or metal

Monopoli

Rovereto

3. Riverfront meets urban

Water is my element. If I can't have the sea or the ocean, at the very least I need a river. I remember how down I used to feel when returning home to Florence after a weekend in Liguria - the Arno would definitely not lift my spirits or make me feel any less landlocked. Canals will also do, but only if there are several of them (the 3 canals in my beloved Milan barely get a 'pass'). I especially love it when a river cuts through a city with a strong urban feel, like Chicago, Berlin or London, and the way the architecture and city culture have a dialogue with the water. Rome and Paris have their own unique feel, and I adore both in a way that can't be summarized in these few lines. I also have wonderful memories of Prague, Dresden, Zurich, Verona and Budapest. Cities with a river coursing through also make very nice maps.

Chicago

Berlin

London

Budapest

Rome

4. Fishing villages and coastal towns

I am drawn to coastal towns and tiny fishing villages to such an extent that it is exceedingly difficult to choose which towns to stop in along a coast - if it were up to me, I would spend time in every single one (and never make it back home). Coastal towns are magical - the way they are built in relation to the sea is a wonderful sight. Some towns are a jumble of pastel-colored houses, stacked one atop the other with no visible spaces between them, on a precarious cliff overlooking the vast sea. Others are sprawled flat and low, as though to keep the sea close and allow everyone the same spectacular view. Fishing villages are among my favorite places to stop for lunch, always eager to spend some time among colorful boats, kind locals and the generous offerings of the sea.

Monterosso

Riomaggiore

Converging Boats (Bermeo)

Kassiopi, Corfu

San Vito (Puglia)

5. East meets West

I have a fascination for cities that mark a junction - either historically or geographically - between East and West. I once went on a mission to analyze the eastern influences on the urban fabric of Venice and its architecture. Istanbul is also still at the top of my dream travel destinations, as is Morocco.

Otranto mosaics

Il Moro | Veni Etiam Photography | Fine-art print, wood, canvas, acrylic or metal

What are your favorite kinds of travel destinations - the types of places you gravitate towards? Tell me in a comment, I'd love to know.

This concludes the 7-part Birthday Blog Series. Veni Etiam Photography is celebrating its two-year birthday this month. Don’t miss out on the special PAIRDEAL birthday promotion that ends TODAY! Visit the main shop or my Etsy shop to choose a piece of the world for your home.

9 Travel Tips for the New Year

7/12/2016

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As the year winds to a close, you may have travel plans on the horizon or you are already dreaming up a destination for 2017.

This week, I was giving some travel advice to a friend of mine who never really yearned to travel and has now caught an insatiable travel bug. This unexpectedly led me to reflect on the way I travel and on some of my own favorite tips that developed over the course of my travels. I try to consciously apply these, no matter the trip – near or far, long or short, solo or with others.

Here are 9 travel tips from me to you:

1. Don’t do too much research.
If you’re a planner like me, you’ll want to make the most out of your trip, especially if it’s a big one. While there’s something to be said about reading up on a place, its sights, its history and its culture, procrastinating some of the education until you’re standing on the land does have its benefits. Let yourself be surprised! Your eyes don’t want to take what is in front of them for granted as though you’re standing in a YouTube video or in a Google image.

2. Leave some breathing room.
If you’re planning an itinerary yourself, it’s always difficult to make decisions in advance. How long should you spend in a town? Where do you choose to stop along the way? What excursions do you commit to in advance? It is one of the most annoying and beautiful aspects of planned travel – annoying because each decision made in advance can feel like a shot in the dark, but beautiful because of the opportunity for overturned expectations. Leave yourself enough wiggle room in your itinerary, as you may unexpectedly fall in love with a place or spontaneously stumble upon something you would be sad to leave too soon.

3. Untether yourself from the world you left behind.
Easier said than done, but quite possibly THE game-changer for your peace of mind. If you can’t completely disconnect from email or social media, then make an honest effort to set limits. Check it once a day. Unsubscribe from a whole bunch of “noise” before you go. Disable notifications. Set an auto-responder that buys you some time. Refrain from keeping completely up to date with your news feeds and inboxes. Think about it: do you want all those people on vacation with you? Your mental space is precious – be selective with it!

4. Speak to locals.
Don’t be shy to speak to the people whose country you are a guest in. Make time in your itinerary for conversations and connections. Everyone sees the sights you will see, but chance encounters can make you see things in a new light. Locals are also the best people to ask for recommendations on where to eat. Sometimes, they may even walk you to a bar or a restaurant to make sure that you find it!

5. Tend to your needs.
Know yourself and do what is best for you. When I travel, I make time for seeing and enjoying, but I also know I need to make time for photographing and documenting. I am a slow photographer. I hate the feeling of someone waiting for me while I compose a shot, while I wait for a wave to hit a cliff, an S-bahn to pass, people to clear the scene, or while I shift angles trying to catch a reflection in a puddle or a window. I am also a sentimental writer, which means that for the direct line to flow from my heart to my pen, I often have to be alone. I make sure that my travel companion(s) know that I need some time to tend to these needs, otherwise I’ll feel constrained. Get to know your own style of travel and shamelessly tend to your needs.

6. Venture outside of your comfort zone at least once.
Doing something that you wouldn’t normally do has a strangely exhilarating, confident-boosting effect. You are capable, multi-faceted and alive – don’t deny yourself anything simply to play it safe. Life is too short for that.

7. Be in the moment – let your senses take over.
Mindfulness is a challenge in an era of hyperconnectivity. I would believe it if you told me the Earth has been spinning faster on its axis. Letting go of the rush and being present is a feat – an exercise worth practicing in an unfamiliar environment. Shutting your analytical mind off will let your senses take over. It will also shut down the complaint department, making you quieter and much less tense. Take time to notice things – really, truly notice things. What you see at the market, how the language sounds, how the light is, how the sea feels. When I was little, my Mom used to urge me to “make a memory” – take a picture with my mind.

8. Keep a bullet point journal of observations, anecdotes and feelings.
It can feel like a daunting task to write in a travel journal, to feel like you have to narrate your journey. Even for a writer like me. I actually prefer to write in bullet points most of the time – observations with no particular order, snippets of conversations, words that have a nice ring to them, funny experiences that make good travel anecdotes to tell, names of places and wines to remember. Often, the bullet points become full paragraphs. That’s when I know the pressure is off.

9. Bring something home.
Start your own collection of “imports” from your travels. Make a point to find something beautiful and local to bring home, to remind you of that piece of you that felt so alive and happy there.

Let me know

Which one of these 9 tips resonates with you? Got a tip that’s not mentioned here?

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1. Nice

2. Villefranche, Cap Ferrat & Beaulieu sur Mer

3. Eze

4. Menton

5. Monaco

6. Cannes

7. Antibes

8. St Paul de Vence

1. La Baie (Saguenay)

2. La petite maison blanche

3. L'anse de la Tabatière

4. Le quai du Petit Saguenay

5. L'anse Saint-Etienne

1. Have all the essentials

2. Know yourself

3. Choose your surroundings carefully

4. Make time for recharging

5. Practice forgiveness

1. Never change money at the airport

2. Know the exchange rate in advance

3. Don't store all your cash in one place

4. Have enough cash for your first few days (and emergencies)

5. Ask for small denominations

6. Carry more than one bank card

7. Keep your bank cards separate (and know how to report them lost)

8. Know your cards' usage fees

9. Notify your bank before you travel

10. Choose a secure ATM for your withdrawals

11. Familiarize yourself with the currency

12. Check your statements online

13. Use as much change as you can

1. Bari

2. Polignano a Mare

3. Monopoli

4. Ostuni

5. Alberobello

6. Locorotondo

7. Martina Franca

8. Lecce

9. Otranto

10. Santa Cesarea Terme

11. Santa Maria di Leuca

12. Gallipoli

13. Porto Cesareo & Torre Lapillo

14. Porto Selvaggio

1. Be patient

2. Buy tickets in advance for major attractions

3. Take a metal water bottle with you

4. Go food shopping

5. Have a copy of your passport and important cards on you

6. Vary your shoes

7. Don't forget your battery pack

8. Be respectful of your surroundings

Halifax Harbour

The Bay of Fundy coastline from Blomidon to Digby

Halls Harbour

Vineyards of the Annapolis Valley

Fisherman's Cove

Rainbow Haven Beach

Lawrencetown Beach

Peggy's Cove

Mahone Bay and Lunenburg

Martinique Beach

Cape Breton Island

Is there a part of Italy you feel is underrated?

What's a place you'd return to, again and again?

What advice would you give to an "Italy beginner" when helping them plan their travels?

1. Invest in a lightweight suitcase

2. Scrutinize your selection

3. Maximize your space

4. Squeeze the air out!

5. Ward off stains and spills

6. Keep all your electronic gadgets in one place

7. Keep it fresh

8. Don't forget the duct tape

Let me know

﻿Kristina Kasparian﻿

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