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The magic of Brandy Pot Island

28/8/2019

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Imagine sleeping in a lighthouse on a tiny island where you feel like you are just a dot in the vast world. Imagine your ears being filled all day long with birdsong, wind and the sound of water spilling over mossy rocks. Imagine a day where your conception of time shifts to depend only on the sun and the tide, where the night sky is brighter and where your breaths are deeper than they have been in a long while.
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On this little island in the middle of the St-Lawrence river in the Canadian province of Quebec, you'll be charmed by marine life and get a glimpse of what it was like to be a lighthouse keeper in the 19th century.
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Across from Rivière-du-Loup, this enchanting archipelago is made up of three small islands: Le Gros Pot, Le Petit Pot and le Pot du Phare. Several other islands can be found nearby, like Hare Island (Ile aux Lièvres). The name for Brandy Pot island comes from sailors who thought the puddles of water pooled in pockets on the island's rocky shores looked like brandy.

Historically, the sailing conditions were challenging in this area of the St-Lawrence river; the currents were strong and the many small islands were difficult to see in the night and thick fog. Shipwrecks were far too common, so the construction of several lighthouses was commissioned. The Brandy Pot lighthouse was built in 1862 on the same rocky promontory where it proudly stands today. For 102 years, six keepers took turns enduring the harsh winters, strong winds and unpredictable weather. They committed their lives to the daily upkeep of the lighthouse, to shining its light through each long night, and guiding ships to safety. What an honor it must have been to be a lighthouse keeper, and what a privilege to have this grandiose view to call home. 
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The lighthouse fell into disrepair after it was abandoned in 1964, when its light was automated and later rendered obsolete by a modern steel lighthouse tower built a few meters away. But the island was still rich with marine birds and vegetation, which led a group of biologists to join efforts in its preservation. Together, these biologists founded the non-profit organization Société Duvetnor, which gradually acquired several islands in the lower St-Lawrence and invested in the conservation of these bird sanctuaries.  

The aged Brandy Pot Lighthouse was renovated in 1989 according to its original architectural plans and fitted with a new lantern. What helped raise funds for its restoration was the Duvetnor organization's collection of down from the nests of the island's eider ducks each spring. The coveted down from these nests was exported to Europe where its value soared. To ensure the sustainability of these conservation efforts, the Government of Canada recently acquired the island from Duvetnor, though the non-profit organization continues to receive visitors in the three rooms of the historical lighthouse, as well as on the neighboring Hare Island (Ile aux Lièvres). Duvetnor's excursions and lodging serves their primary goal of wildlife conservation. 
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Aboard the small ferry crossing over to the archipelago from Rivière-du-Loup, both the height of the waves and my childish excitement had butterflies fluttering wildly in my stomach. Smiling widely, I gripped the metal bar in front of my seat and watched through the soaked windows as a red and white structure slowly grew into view. I have loved lighthouses for as long as I could remember, and here was my chance to stay in one overnight. Two other couples were aboard the boat - hiking shoes, cameras and wine in tow. 
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Before disembarking at the lighthouse, our guide Quentin gave us a tour of the archipelago, recounting historical facts to six faces who listened intently, punctuating some of his sentences with a shutter press to record these unique landscapes we felt so privileged to witness. 
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When we docked at the lighthouse island and climbed up the long, steep ramp towards solid ground, my mind did all the photographing. The sun was low in the sky and the lighthouse was towering over us, greeting us as it had greeted countless unknown sailors in the past. To our backs, the river, the coastline far beyond our view. Around us, layers of rocks and trees and purple wildflowers, swaying in the fierce wind as though waving us on. Above us, seagulls making their presence known, taking an opportunity to remind us that they are in command here. 
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Our gracious Duvetnor hosts welcomed us warmly and showed us to our cozy rooms, thoughtfully decorated in a way that grounded us in the history of the place. We were given a few minutes to get settled and then taken on a walking tour of the island's trails, which are accessible only after the nesting season ends in July. 
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The light was magical and we felt blessed to have a perfect view of the horizon, as it had been extremely foggy the day before. Our guide took us along the paths to different lookouts, pointing out the different vegetation and various mysteries of the island, like a cross planted in the middle of the forest. 
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My favorite lookout point was "La Chaloupe", which won my heart in that light and won it over again the next morning shortly after sunrise. 
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After our walk, we had free time to walk around, sit on the terrace or climb to the top of the lighthouse tower.
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Soon, it came time for dinner to be served. We were spoiled with a four-course meal, each dish prepared with local ingredients and fresh garden herbs (in this case, their "garden" being a whole island!). Warm bread, a charcuterie & cheese board, ginger carrot soup, salmon on a bed of wild rice, and a homemade chocolate cake for dessert. 
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As we sat in the dining room, the sky put on a symphony of colors to remind us of how blessed we were, in case we had forgotten. We dined for hours, our cheeks cool from the fresh air, the spice of the meal lingering on our lips, our elbows propped on a table we shared with visitors from across the globe who were strangers just hours ago but now were topping up our glasses of wine as though we were old friends. 
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We bundled up in all our layers to brave the wind and stepped onto the terrace. Somewhere between the coffee and the last glass of wine, the island had become draped with the perfect night sky - a speckled dome that made us forget Instagram and work and all the pressures of past and future. 
We fell asleep early, suddenly wiped by the excitement and all that our senses had experienced. I woke up in the middle of the night and smiled when I discovered that the electricity had been turned off (as it is solar-powered). I felt refreshed by the stillness of the night and of my mind.

I woke up to join the seagulls at 5am to welcome the sun. I have only caught a handful of sunrises in my life so far. As I'm not a morning person, witnessing sunsets is a much more realistic goal! But what a treat, a feast for the eyes and ears, as I stood there feeling totally undeserving of that miraculous view, watching as the seagulls loudly celebrated the promise of a brand new day. 
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Duvetnor must know that fresh air and early sunrises make you hungry! To remedy this, they serve not one but two breakfasts! A light breakfast of fruits and fresh croissants is served at 6am, followed by a more substantial breakfast with eggs and meats at 8am. In between, and afterwards, you're free to enjoy the paths or laze around the lighthouse. I took the opportunity to return to "La Chaloupe" again, where I sat on the rocks for a while and watched the birds go about their morning. I always love to return to the spots that inspire me to see how they change with the changing light and changing tides, and this little gem of a place was no exception.  
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When it came time to leave, to walk down that same ramp and say farewell to those views, I felt a pinch in my heart. I watched as the new set of six visitors disembarked, their faces looking around in awe as we had done. It was like coming out of a movie at the theater, wanting to exclaim, "It was so good!" but refraining so as not to spoil anything for them.
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In fact, it may seem like I've shared a lot with you here, but I have been conscious not to spoil anything for you. The truth of the matter is, you must go and see - no, feel - this for yourself. Visit the Duvetnor website for all the information you need on Iles du Pot and Ile aux Lièvres. You can also follow them on Facebook or Instagram for updates.

If you do book a stay on these islands, here are 7 things you may want to pack:
- Your camera
- Your childish enthusiasm
- A battery pack (to charge your phone at night without electricity)
- Something to read 
- Hiking shoes 
- A windbreaker and/or hoodie
- Wine
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I hope you enjoyed this virtual tour of a place that truly won my heart!

Have you been here or somewhere similar? Leave a comment! I would love to hear from you. 
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International des Montgolfières in St-Jean sur Richelieu

16/8/2019

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Some experiences ​make you feel like a child again. 

Gazing up at the sky in wonder at the International Balloon Festival of St Jean sur Richelieu, I felt like I was six, with cotton candy on my fingers, a clip barely holding my messy sunkissed hair, a wide smile frozen on my face and a giddy fluttering sensation in my belly. What a wondrous thing, to be launched into the sky at dusk with only a general sense of direction, knowing full well that the winds could change at any moment, not knowing at all where or how exactly the landing would take place. 
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That is the fate of some hundred hot air balloons of different colors, patterns and shapes that are sent into the sky with their passengers twice a day at this festival, at the mercy of the strength and direction of the winds. As the announcer explained to all of us gathered on site to watch the spectacular launch around 6pm, winds tend to be higher in speed at ground level than at high altitudes, and tend to drop as the sun dips in the sky when it sets. While they can send up balloon probes and measure the winds with fancy instruments, there still remains an element of uncertainty and surprise that the actual hot air balloons can only experience directly once high over our heads. 
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It takes great skill and experience to inflate and man these balloons. Some of the special shaped balloons like animals or characters are much thicker in material and trickier to fill. It is astonishing to watch them come to life in a vast field as they slowly grow from folded up parachutes tucked inside little trucks until the flag is finally waved. An orange flag means they are testing the winds and will reach a decision about the flight path soon. A green flag means the balloons are ready for liftoff! The "pursuit" crews climb into their trucks to follow the balloons to wherever they land. And so the balloons are pulled and held and filled and fueled, until suddenly they glide up, up and away gracefully over hundreds of waving hands and shrieking voices aged 6 through 60. 
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The announcer animates the take-off, introducing sponsors and presenting facts, all of which makes the experience even more captivating. 
And though you know they are gliding steadily through space, the balloons somehow look suspended in time, hanging like teardrops, like wishes, like dreams about to come true.

You look up, making a memory, recording the perfectly orchestrated scene of balloons, birds and the gentle breeze in the setting sun. You feel connected through an invisible portal to all those who gathered to witness hot air balloon flights in history, going all the way back to Paris in 1783. 
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When the balloons are far on the horizon, there is still much fun to be had, with vast fair grounds, virtual reality demonstrations, food trucks, lounge areas and a live concert on a big stage. The park is full without being crowded, and everyone seems happy. I can't think of a better way to spend a mid-August evening. 
Visit the International des Montgolfières website for more details.
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Have you ever watched a hot-air balloon take flight? Have you ever been on one? Share your experience in a comment below! 
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Tips for traveling with a chronic illness like endometriosis

14/8/2019

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Since I was young, I have been restless, curious and drawn to certain places around the world without knowing why. Whenever the opportunity arose to travel and even live abroad for studies and work, I jumped at it with my heart thumping in my chest and a notebook (and camera) ready to record my observations and feelings.

It is difficult to pinpoint exactly when my "normal" life with endometriosis (then still undiagnosed) unraveled into symptoms that were too much to bear on a daily basis, let alone to carry with me on a trip. My nomadic lifestyle and, to a large degree, my sense of self, grappled with the reality that I could not travel freely with my condition, which needed treatment and management continuously on a physical, mental and emotional level. 

Travel is a privilege and is good for the soul. But chronic conditions like endometriosis, multiple sclerosis, fibromyalgia, PCOS, Crohn's, or celiac disease (only to name a few) require lifestyle accommodations and mindset shifts on a daily basis, which can make travel feel daunting. 

Here are my 5 tips for traveling with a chronic illness. These are the strategies I personally use as someone with debilitating endometriosis and associated conditions. Whether I travel with loved-ones who know about my condition or with acquaintances who have no idea, I prioritize these 5 practices to make sure that I am comfortable, peaceful and ready to feel inspired by my journey. 

1. Have all the essentials

The basics cannot be underestimated!

Having travel health insurance and a flexible cancellation policy is important and definitely not a waste of money. Knowing that you are covered in case of unexpected circumstances can help reduce anxiety surrounding your health condition, making your trip far more enjoyable.

Make sure to have your pain / prescription medications filled for the duration of your stay. It could also help to have them in their original packaging or at least with the accompanying label that describes their generic pharmaceutical name and dosage, in case this information is required by a physician or pharmacist caring for you abroad. 

Before you pack, make a checklist of everything you use at home to manage your symptoms and flare-ups. Be sure not to forget these essentials, whether it is your favorite loose clothing (hey there, #endobelly), your more reliable footwear, a hot water bottle or heat pack, lavender or other soothing essential oils, CBD, specific foods, bath salts, etc. 

In short, do everything you can to feel at home when you travel.

2. Know yourself 

If you're like me, chances are you've been called "hypersensitive" or something similar over the course of your medical (or even personal) history. Well, I've learned that the beauty of being so "hypersensitive" is being totally in tune with my body, its signals and its needs. Checking in with yourself regularly - not only when symptoms surface - is the best tool to keeping triggers at bay and fully enjoy your trip. 

What foods or behaviors trigger flare-ups in your symptoms?
At what point in the calendar are you vulnerable or susceptible to pain or fatigue? 
What are the non-negotiables in your daily or weekly self-care routine?

Know your rhythm, your triggers, your body's signals and your favorite strategies for taking a step back and prioritizing self-care. 


There is nothing in the rulebook that says you cannot adopt all of your approaches while you travel! 

3. Choose your surroundings carefully

There can be a lot of guilt associated with living with a chronic illness, but it's important to train ourselves not to feel guilty for tending to our physical, emotional and mental needs. Choosing an accommodation that will support our comfort is an important part of traveling happily.

If you feel you might need a private room, a bathroom or a bathtub, look for an accommodation with those criteria. If swimming or warm, sunny climates help ease your pain, choose destinations that will do you good! Look up the surroundings of your accommodation - know where the nearest pharmacy or supermarket is, for example.

While in transit, pace yourself. Give yourself enough time so you don't have to rush or strain. Finally, don't be shy to ask for assistance, whether it means getting a lift somewhere, or asking the airline staff for extra support. 

4. Make time for recharging

Travel can be so exciting, invigorating and exhausting - it's easy to forget yourself and to neglect your downtime when you're on the go. ​If you're the type to follow an itinerary, then please schedule REST into your itinerary!

Seriously.

​Guilt-free time to relax and recharge will make your travel experiences more positive and more memorable than if you take that time to cram in yet another destination or activity. 

5. Practice forgiveness

If the way you are feeling "gets in the way" of something you had planned to see or do, please don't be hard on yourself. I know that feeling all too well. Truthfully, this is still something I struggle with personally. Forgive your body for slamming on the breaks. Go one extra step and thank it for doing so, because it means it is articulating its needs, and maybe - just maybe - you will discover something special in staying still. 
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Got a personal strategy to share? Please do! I'll see you in the comments!
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Money tips for traveling abroad

14/8/2019

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International travel is super exciting but also requires some preparation to ensure your experience is safe, hassle-free and inspiring. 

An important aspect of "traveling smart" is to devote some thought to how you will manage your money while you're abroad.

These tips may seem like common sense, but sometimes we get carried away with everything we have to do before our trip, and our departure date sneaks up on us without having had the time to deal with money matters.

Here are 13 money tips for your peace of mind while you travel internationally.
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1. Never change money at the airport

If you have to change money at an airport, it likely means you're rushed, unprepared and desperate. And those are precisely the ingredients that cook up the exorbitant rates that airport exchange offices will "offer" you! 

2. Know the exchange rate in advance

To understand how far your money will go and how much things actually cost, it helps to familiarize yourself with the local currency in advance. You can also download a quick currency converter app. Look up the exchange rate before you change your money so you know what to expect in return and know to feel alarmed by hidden commissions, transaction fees or wrong calculations. Stress, numbers, jet-leg, crowds and a foreign language can lead you to feel flustered and inattentive, so better to be as prepared as you can be. 

3. Don't store all your cash in one place

If you are forced to travel with a decent amount of cash, certainly don't carry it all in one place... and certainly not in your back pocket. This would easily be a pickpocket's dream and your nightmare! If traveling with someone, split the money up between you. If you have a secure place to leave it that is not ON you, that is a safer bet. If you have no choice but to carry it on you, be sure to hide it in different secure areas of your backpack, purse and/or on your person, so that it is not vulnerable to loss or theft in one shot. Some nifty items have been invented over the years to hide banknotes, so you can be creative as well as strategic!

4. Have enough cash for your first few days (and emergencies)

Even if your trip is the spontaneous, "go with the flow" kind, be sure to have enough cash on you for your first few days abroad, as well as for emergencies. Research where you can get extra money in advance, but plan for the unexpected. 

5. Ask for small denominations

When you exchange your money, ask for smaller denominations as a general rule. If you have a few large denominations, break them in reputable places where you are not in a rush or surrounded by a crowd (and be mindful of the change you get back). Smaller banknotes are also a good idea to stash in a safe place in case of emergencies. 

6. Carry more than one bank card

Even if you foresee paying cash almost everywhere you go, it's a good idea to have more than one bank card on you, in case one gets demagnetized, lost, stolen, frozen by your bank or swallowed up by an unfriendly ATM machine. 

7. Keep your bank cards separate (and know how to report them lost)

Carry your bank cards separately to avoid losing them in one fell swoop if your wallet is lost or stolen. In case you don't have data or internet access, make sure you have the phone numbers of where to report your card lost or stolen, and that you have the information required by your bank to identify yourself and your account. 

8. Know your cards' usage fees 

Your bank probably charges a fee to withdraw from foreign ATMs. It's a good idea to know any special fees that may be incurred on your account before you travel. If you use your credit card to withdraw cash, note that it will charge you a cash advance fee as well as interest on the amount immediately, until you pay your card's balance in full. 

9. Notify your bank before you travel

Notifying your bank / credit card company of your travel prior to your departure is a good idea to avoid their fraud department freezing your card as a precaution when they see frequent or large transactions being made abroad. Notify them of your dates and destinations so they know the irregular activity is not fraudulent. 

10. Choose a secure ATM for your withdrawals

If you're planning on withdrawing cash abroad, be smart about when, where and how you do it. Choose an ATM that is not in a sketchy or poorly-lit location. Make sure to be discrete and strategic when divvying up the money you withdraw into your different "stash" areas, and opt for making the withdrawal on your way back to your accommodation rather than on your way out for the day, so that you are not carrying a ton of cash everywhere you go. 

11. Familiarize yourself with the currency 

Knowing what the country's banknotes and coins look like will facilitate your life when you're abroad, whether you're about to pay for something in a line-up or whether you want to double-check what you received as change. When money looks foreign to you, it is surprisingly easy to confuse similar-looking banknotes.

12. Check your statements online

Using a secure internet connection (i.e., not the free public WiFi), make a point to periodically check your bank statements online. Create an entry in your calendar to remind yourself when your credit card is due, and take that opportunity to make sure there are no suspicious transactions on your account. Before notifying your bank of what you think might be a fraudulent transaction, take an extra moment to make sure it really was not something you purchased yourself - sometimes establishments come up under a different legal name on your statement. 

13. Use as much change as you can

It's tempting to always pay with banknotes for the sake of ease and simplicity, especially to avoid counting coins when we're in a rush or in a crowded place. Unfortunately, that might mean you'll end up with a ton of coins that will have no value to you when you return home, because currency exchange places and banks rarely accept coins in return. One strategy would be to count your coins before you leave your accommodation and to organize them so you can easily pay for your coffee or fruit with a chunk of pre-counted change. 
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Was this helpful? Got another money tip to share? Leave a comment below.
​I always love to hear from you!
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    Kristina Kasparian

    Thanks for stopping by! #OnTheBlog are the stories behind my prints, posts about my travels, glimpses into my daily life, news about my shop, events in the Montreal community and tips on travel, home and photography. 

    Merci de visiter mon blogue! Vous y trouverez les histoires qui ont donné naissance à mes photographies, mes chroniques de voyage, un aperçu de ma vie quotidienne, des nouvelles sur ma boutique et mes conseils sur les voyages, sur la déco maison et sur la photographie. 

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