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Gems of the Côte d'Azur

30/10/2019

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In my last post, I took you with me to beautiful Nice on the French Riviera. I explained why I fled there in mid-October, and shared some fun facts about the city's history, how I felt there and, of course, TONS of photos of its landscapes, local life and inspiring little details.

One of the reasons I was lured to Nice was because it is also the perfect hub to explore other jewels of the Côte d’Azur, many of which can be easily reached by bus, train or car.

When I launch my Côte d’Azur print collection next week, you’ll notice that 4 places on the coast really tugged on my heart among all the towns I had the chance to visit. Places speak to us in unexpected ways sometimes, and so much of our nostalgia depends on our own memories of that day, the light, the people and perhaps whether or not there was ice cream involved.

So, who knows which places on the Riviera will inspire YOU the most! You’ll have to see them all to pick your own favorites.
Here are 8 stunning places that should be on your Côte d’Azur itinerary! 

1. Nice

When I close my eyes and think of Nice, I see her Promenade, the way the Sea changes its blue several times a day, the pizzas and ice creams, the window shutters and markets, the vast squares and narrow lanes, its dialect and busy port. 

As I mentioned ​in my last post, Nice has the perfect mix between old and new, urban and maritime, French and Italian. 
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2. Villefranche, Cap Ferrat & Beaulieu sur Mer

A very short hop away from Nice are 3 beautiful coastal towns worth visiting. Villefranche-sur-Mer is a picturesque town with an old harbor that is considered one of the deepest natural harbors of the Mediterranean, on a bay sheltered from strong winds. Beaulieu-sur-Mer and Cap Ferrat are tranquil resort towns that you can consider retiring in when you've made your first million. 
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3. Eze

Spending time in the clifftop village of Èze was like being immersed in storybook pages. A village with ancient roots, it now is an atmospheric maze of shops, galleries and restaurants. Its warm color palette, textured architecture and pretty details suffice to overwhelm the heart from the first few moments of uphill climbing (which impacts the heart as well). 
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From the Jardin Exotique (Exotic Garden) designed on the site of the medieval Château d'Èze fortress, you can lose all track of time surrounded by succulents, cacti and plants from all corners of the world, growing and flowering along winding pathways, caves and waterfalls, guarded by graceful statues perched high above the Sea. The views from the garden stretch far into the blue horizon and down below to Èze-bord-de-Mer and its beach. I would certainly go back to Èze and spend a whole day in this garden.  

​If you'd like to walk down to the beach, there is a steep winding path from Èze-Village. The surface of the path (even within the village) is quite slippery, so choose your shoes wisely. ​
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4. Menton

Right on the Italian border, Menton feels wonderfully Ligurian in its architecture and, arguably more importantly, its limoncello. The lemon is the symbol of the coastal town, though its gentle micro-climate is also favorable to mandarine and orange groves, which make equally delicious varieties of liquor.
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Menton has a charming old town, marina, waterfront promenade, daily market and beaches. The climb up to the top of the Baroque Basilica is well worth the views, both of the town and the Sea. 

Although it was mid-October, I took a deep breath and plunged into the Sea at the city beach just beneath the old town. As a local joked, after the first 30 minutes, the temperature of the water became more bearable. I didn't take pictures while floating on my back, but instead made a vivid memory of the stacked colored houses of the old town and the green hills surrounding it. 
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5. Monaco

Monaco is a must-see because of its world-renowned Monte-Carlo casino, but also because it is its own country with an interesting history.

It is easy to forget that Monaco is an independent country because France borders it on 3 sides (its fourth side bordered by the Mediterranean Sea) and French is its official language. Although Monaco is not formally part of the EU, there is no official border control when entering Monaco from France, and the euro is the sole currency.

The opening of its Monte Carlo Casino in 1863 made Monaco so wealthy that it no longer needed to charge income tax on its residents. To this day, Monaco continues to be a tax haven and a recreational destination for the wealthy, attracting visitors not only to its Casino but also to its annual Formula One race. 
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If monarchies fascinate you, you could make a stop at the Royal Palace to watch the daily changing of the guards. (I found it more amusing to watch the crowds watch the changing of the guards through their devices). 
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And, if you're like me and are amused by geography and borders, you can enjoy the fact that, depending on where you stand, you might be able to see 3 countries at once: Monaco, France and Italy. You can also get your passport stamped at the local tourist office!
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6. Cannes

Cannes is famous for its International Film Festival and its "Promenade de la Croisette" seafront strip of posh hotels, restaurants and shops.

​The Palais des Festivals et des Congrès was closed to the public during my visit, as they were setting up for an upcoming event, but I was able to enjoy a view of it from the long sandy beach. Fun fact: the sandy beach in Cannes is "artificial", in the sense that the city has had the sand brought over to enhance its appeal to visitors. 
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7. Antibes

Antibes is a chic town with a relaxed ambiance. As a Greek settlement, it was named "Antipolis", meaning "opposite city" because of its location across from Nice. It is known for its Port Vauban marina - the largest in Europe - which harbors both fishing boats and luxury yachts. You can walk the 16th century ramparts and admire the Alps from a distance. In Antibes, you have several choices of museums, notably the Musée Picasso. If the Sea and fresh air have stimulated your appetite, visit the Marché provençal market hall or enjoy a sorbet from one of the many ice cream shops in town. I really (really really) enjoyed my tropézienne sorbet, named after the traditional regional tart made with custard, butter cream, orange blossoms and sugar. Antibes also had lovely little shops to discover, and a charming English bookstore. 
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8. St Paul de Vence

An idyllic medieval village perched above sea level, St-Paul de Vence attracted many artists and writers in the 19th and 20th centuries who were looking for their muse, like Matisse, Chagall, Picasso, James Baldwin, Jacques Prévert and Yves Montand, to name a few. That artistic atmosphere is still alive and well today, as the town's narrow lanes are replete with contemporary art galleries and shops.

In the 14th century, St-Paul de Vence occupied a strategic position as a border city, and city walls were erected in the later half of the 14th century. Those ramparts and two of its original towers still stand today and, from them, you can enjoy sweeping views of the surrounding countryside. 
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Now that you've had a glimpse of these coastal cities and perched towns, which do you most feel like visiting? Can you guess which 4 places left me longing to return? 
Leave a comment below and let me know!

Stay tuned for the unveiling of my new Côte d'Azur collection of fine-art prints, postcards and wall art. To get on the VIP list and get a sneak peek of the collection before it's launched, sign up here. 

From my heart to yours!
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Take me back to Nice: Musings of my escapade on the Côte d'Azur

27/10/2019

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It's always just a matter of time until my restlessness makes me crave a suitcase, an airplane and a different timezone.

Sometimes, the travel bug is quite satiable by exploring new places close to home, like I did this summer. 

But sometimes, you feel like stretching your legs a little more. 
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My favorite way of traveling is - like everything else I tend to do in life - based on feeling. What scenery am I daydreaming of? What would make my mind and body feel refreshed? Which culture is calling me? What kinds of photos do I want to share with you? (Don't underestimate the importance of the last question!)

This October, Nice had all the advantages for an easy, spontaneous getaway. 

For one, I felt an aching longing for Europe, especially Europe in the fall, which was my favorite season when I lived there. Nice was also inviting because it felt so accessible -- a direct flight, one tram-ride away from the airport, lots of accommodation options. It also has my favorite type of "city formula", namely: seafront + port + old town + new town, and it makes a great hub for exploring nearby coastal towns and villages. 

And, something that was particularly tempting: I had never been there. You know I love to return to places, but this time, I was in the mood for something new. 
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So I scurried to put my work aside and to block off a week to rest my head, fill up my senses and press pause on "summer palette" for a little while longer, before immersing myself into falling leaves. 
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​Essentially, Nice called and I went running. 
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I immediately noticed how comfortable I was in Nice. It felt as though I had resumed my life in Italy. The architecture, Ligurian rhythm and Italian spoken all around me made me forget that I was in France for long moments at a time. Luckily, there were many fresh baguettes to remind me...
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Nice owes its Italian similarities not only to her proximity to the Italian border but also to the fact that Nice went back and forth between belonging to "Italy" (or Savoy which became the Kingdom of Piedmont-Sardinia, which later became part of Italy) and belonging to France. In its complicated history, Nice was besieged and occupied several times by the French in the 17th and 18th centuries, and its ramparts and citadel were destroyed. In 1793, the French wanted to show that they were not annexing Nice against her will; a referendum was held and the people voted in favor of Nice belonging officially to France. 

Back in Italian possession in the 19th century, Nice was ceded to France as a thank you for France's assistance in Italy's war against Austria. A second referendum then confirmed the decision. Soldier and politician Giuseppe Garibaldi, who was born in Nice, opposed the result and argued that the vote had been rigged by the French. At the time, many Italians left Nice and moved down the Ligurian coast, giving rise to the movement of Italian irredentists who campaigned for the reacquisition of their beloved Nissa la Bella. 
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The Niçard dialect has strong Italian influences and can still be seen on the street signs in Old Nice. 
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So, Nice belonged to both France and Italy. But what do the English have to do with all this, then?!

In the 18th century, the English aristocracy began spending their winters in Nice, lured by the gentler weather. Before the seafront promenade was built, the waterfront areas were home to dockworkers and fishermen, rather than to fancy hotels and residences as we know it today. 

The "Camin dei Inglès" (Promenade des Anglais) walkway is said to have been proposed by the English as a useful urban project for beggars who came looking for shelter from the north during a particularly harsh winter. The wide waterfront promenade dotted with palm trees, beach umbrellas and blue chairs has now become the icon of Nice and its Baie des Anges.
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Another symbol of Nice is the luxurious Hotel Negresco, opened in 1913 by Henri Negresco who wanted a sumptuous hotel to attract the wealthiest visitors to the French Riviera. The lavish rococo hotel with its iconic pink dome still maintains an elite bourgeois feel to it today. On the night of the Bastille Day attack on the Promenade in 2016, its famous main hall was used to triage wounded civilians, reminiscent of when the hotel was converted into a hospital during World War I. 
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My sea-loving heart was so happy in Nice. I began and ended each day with the Sea. 
In the mornings, I would step out onto my AirBnB's balcony one block up from the Promenade, and try to peak between buildings to see what the Sea looked like, knowing full well that her color would change with every hour of the day. I would walk the pebbly beach after breakfast, taking long pauses between pictures to make sure I would remember the way the light and maritime air felt on my skin. I'd stop to notice the heavy scent of sea salt hanging in the air, and the deafening sound the tide made when it pulled out of the shore with millions of pebbles tumbling like coins in its grasp.

In the afternoon, I would plop myself down in front of the vast horizon, either on the shore or in one of the "chaises bleues", just watching, and being. A couple of times, I ventured into the water at high tide, amazed at how warm it still was in October. 

In the evenings, the Sea would summon me again and accompany me on my stroll back to the apartment. 

​Just for the sea (but for many other reasons), I could have stayed in Nice. 

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Nice was also impressive for its many gorgeous squares and green spaces. I never felt rushed, squeezed, pushed or overwhelmed. The whole city had a soothing energy.

I can't say whether it feels like that for the locals, or at busier times of the year, but it definitely felt as though careful planning and restoration had paid off. Everything just made sense, from an urban planning perspective. 

Place Masséna is a sort of converging point between Old Nice and the new town. Walking up from the Promenade, you are blessed with this charming view of Apollo and the four horses on his head.
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The Sun Fountain and its 5 bronze status representing Mercury, Venus, Earth, Mars and Saturn is a magnificent sight, though not without its share of historical controversy (Long story short: Apollo was deemed "too well endowed" when he was revealed to the Niçois and, after being adjusted, chiseled, vandalized, exiled and replaced by a boring mound of dirt with 3 pathetic palm trees for several years, the public eventually begged the Mayor to bring back the giant fountain!)
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Place Masséna also leads to the "zone piétonne" (pedestrian street), bustling with restaurants, stores, ice cream shops and inns for every taste. 
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You can stroll and sit for a long while in the calming "Promenade du Paillon" green space flanking Old Nice. If you look at a map, you'll notice it looks as sinuous as a river. That's because it was a river (the Paillon), which was covered in the 19th century. The river's terribly low water levels were unimpressive for residents, who mostly used the river to do their laundry. But the danger with the Paillon was that it could flood very quickly if there was a lot of rain in the hills behind Nice, and it did. The Miroir d'eau water jets and the nearby children's playground (featuring giant wood sea animals) were all designed to echo the underlying Paillon river. 
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And if you enjoy narrow lanes far more than wide open spaces, then simply venture into the maze of streets of the Vieille Ville and linger there for hours. I promise you there is no shortage of inspiration for your senses. 
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One of the aspects I miss most about living in Europe is the delight of market mornings. I would love buying not only produce and local foods from open-air markets, but also art, flowers and clothes. Especially in autumn and spring, I would love to find cozy sweaters and stylish boots, and to bring home art or antiques with a story to tell. 

The daily Marché aux Fleurs in the Cours Saleya square is primarily a flower market, but there are also many produce, food and art vendors. Off the Promenade, the Cours Saleya is behind the Quai des Etats-Unis (where you can see a mini Statue of Liberty). 
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If you're a fish-lover like me, the fish market is located in Place St-François, an interesting part of the Old Town closer to Place Garibaldi. My Mom and I always say that I love the scent of fresh fish because she was unknowingly pregnant with me during her trip to southern Spain, where the smell of fish constantly made her nauseous. I like to think of traits that don't change, in a life where almost everything does!
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At the heart of the Old Town, you come to the 17th century baroque Cathedral, Sainte-Réparate de Nice. Interestingly, its bell tower almost completely hides its gorgeous tiled cupola, so be sure to step back or climb up the hill to admire it in its entirely. ​
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The Cathedral square, Place Rossetti, is also home to Nice's finest gelato shop Fenocchio, which is neither for the faint-hearted nor for the indecisive! Almost 100 flavors await your sampling. I recommend you visit once a day to try as many flavors as humanly possible! (Did I say once a day? I meant twice a day, at least). ​For the curious, my favorites were: meringue, fig, chocolate, nougat, cassis and almond. 
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I'm sorry to say that to walk off all of the ice cream and pizza, the Promenade just isn't gonna cut it. Instead, you should climb up the Colline du Château (Castle Hill), take in the sights up top (like the Jewish cemetery, castle ruins and various lookout points) then walk down to visit the Port, and THEN walk all the way back to the new town via the Promenade. 

Then you can have more ice cream. 
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The Port of Nice is currently under construction (in 2019) to accommodate a new tram, but the area is still highly enjoyable and picturesque. I love to lose track of time in ports and marinas, watching the comings and goings of boats, and imagining which one I would own. 
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If you walk towards the Sea from the Port, you'll reach the Promenade, with the Monuments aux Morts, a tribute to citizens who lost their life in World War I.
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Spending time in Nice in mid-October made me curious about how it changes and unwinds in the fall and winter. I am tempted to do as the English aristocrats did and trade my harsh winter for the gentle winter of Côte d'Azur! What do you think?
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After all, one gets to know a place not only in its changing lights and tides, but its changing seasons. 

I hope my photos and words have convinced you to visit (or revisit) this precious place!

​Thank you, Nissa bella, for renewing my energy and spirit this fall. Our story's not done, I can tell. 
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To read about the coastal towns and medieval villages I visited on the Côte d'Azur during my stay in Nice, check out this blog post: 
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Stay tuned for the unveiling of the new Côte d'Azur collection of prints, postcards and wall art! 
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Discovering the Saguenay Fjord:  5 best panoramic spots

17/10/2019

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Often, the most awe-inspiring places are right in your backyard.

Many of us travel far and wide before we set out to discover the gems that are right nearby. Lately, I have felt compelled to explore the beauty our province of Québec has to offer over the course of its four glorious seasons. You may have already read about my dreamy overnight stay in a historic lighthouse on a tiny island in the middle of the St-Lawrence river. Following those memorable days, I continued my trip inland along the Saguenay fjord, from Baie Sainte-Catherine, through the Saguenay Fjord National Park, to La Baie and Chicoutimi.
There is something about the region that is absolutely breathtaking, a vision that lingers in your mind's eye without fading until you return.

The deep waters are a mysterious mix of salt water and freshwater, their infinite ripples entrancing you in every light, as you watch the fog or rain or the millions of crystals dropped into the water by the Sun. The cliffs look a bit like whale backs, their silhouettes visible from a distance.

​The horizons are expansive, painted in a nameless color mixing blues, grays and greens in random but perfect proportions. And you stand there, feeling tiny, your lungs filled with fresh air and hope. 
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If you're planning a trip to the Saguenay fjord, here are 5 spots I loved and wholeheartedly recommend.

1. La Baie (Saguenay)

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La Baie is a borough of the city of Saguenay, the first colony in the Saguenay-Lac-St-Jean region. It is a beautifully scenic spot that is well worth the visit! The Saguenay river splits into a fork at this point, and La Baie is located on the "Baie des Ha! Ha!" (on the Ha! Ha! river). Fun fact: although the name might make you laugh aloud, it apparently either stems from the Algonquin "place where bark is exchanged" or from the French "unexpected obstacle on a path". Linguists always ruin all the fun!
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2. La petite maison blanche

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La petite maison blanche (The Little White House) is a symbol of resilience. An ordinary Chicoutimi home built in the 1900s, it survived two major floods caused by the overflowing of the nearby dam. The buildings around it were totally destroyed, but there it firmly stood, against all odds. Today, the Little White House has been converted into a museum commemorating the floods, and surrounding area has been transformed into a lovely park with waterfalls paying tribute to its past. 

3. L'anse de la Tabatière

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Anse de la Tabatière is close to Anse St-Jean and part of the SEPAQ Saguenay Fjord National Park. It boasts breathtaking panoramas over the fjord from several lookout points that are relatively easy to hike to once you leave your car in the parking area and enter the park (a small admission fee applies). 
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4. Le quai du Petit Saguenay

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Here, in contrast to l'Anse de la Tabatière, you are almost at eye-level with the fjord, and you can't help but feel moved by its immensity and beauty. Every angle, every light, every color is inspiring, and you could probably stay here for hours. I know I could! If you can, time your visit with the sunset in the summer months to catch it setting on the water. 

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5. L'anse Saint-Etienne

The sandy beach at l'Anse Saint-Etienne was created by the natural emptying of a lake that was once located upstream from the village. The small town was completely razed after a serious fire in 1900, and it is said that, at low tide, remains of the old village can be seen. L'Anse Saint-Etienne attracts thousands of visitors every year because you can see beluga whales from its shore. 
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For more information on these sites, visit:
SEPAQ Parc National du Fjord-du-Saguenay
Saguenay Lac-St-Jean 
Tourisme Saguenay
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Have you been to the Saguenay region? What was your favorite part? Let me know in a comment. I always love to hear from you!
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From my heart to yours.
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    Kristina Kasparian

    Thanks for stopping by! #OnTheBlog are the stories behind my prints, posts about my travels, glimpses into my daily life, news about my shop, events in the Montreal community and tips on travel, home and photography. 

    Merci de visiter mon blogue! Vous y trouverez les histoires qui ont donné naissance à mes photographies, mes chroniques de voyage, un aperçu de ma vie quotidienne, des nouvelles sur ma boutique et mes conseils sur les voyages, sur la déco maison et sur la photographie. 

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